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→ Returning To The Sport That Almost Killed Her∞

Posted May 2, 2013 at 7:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Amazing story of recovery by Rannevig Aamodt who was badly injured when she took a ground fall while sport climbing in Turkey about a year ago:

Twelve months have passed since I hit the ground from that 15m free-fall. I broke my pelvis into three pieces and shattered 3 vertebrae and my elbow (compound fracture). I dislocated and fractured both ankles (one was compound), and destroyed a number of bones in my feet and legs.

Aamodt has since returned to climbing at a high level with redpoints up to 5.
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13.

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→ 5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura∞

Posted May 1, 2013 at 10:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany’s Frankenjura:

The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer’s Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago.

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→ Midnight Lightning’s Lightning Bolt Gets Chopped∞

Posted April 30, 2013 at 9:55 am · Comments { 50 } ·

James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite:

Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lightning bolt became less of a testament to a remarkable ascent, of lightning striking at midnight.  The chalk transformed into a trademark, another tourist attraction for passing climbers. The magic left the bolt years ago.

The magic may have left the bolt for Lucas “years ago”, but myself and many others don’t appear to share that sentiment.  Each time I’ve visited the Valley and seen the Columbia boulder and its trademark lightning bolt there was a sense of history that came along with seeing it.  I agree that the chalk lightning bolt had become a trademark, but to me this was a good thing, not a bad thing.

The new bolt remains slightly duller than the last incarnation.
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  How long will it remain that way?
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 Does climbing need these trademarks?

My guess is that it won’t stay this way for long.

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→ No Big Deal∞

Posted April 29, 2013 at 11:00 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Alex Honnold, writing for La Sportiva about his solo of three walls in Zion in a day back in March:

I could write several different essays about the day; it’s given me a ton to think about. One would be how funny it is that climbing media didn’t even touch the story and that no one seems to care about it. Soloing Astroman and the Rostrum in 2007 generated all kinds of news and video bits. This Zion link up, which is infinitely harder and more cutting edge, doesn’t get mentioned. That’s what I get for soloing too much.

I guess I’ll forgive him for not seeing my post about the day.  Or Climbing’s article about it.  But yeah, other than that he might actually have a point considering how much publicity most of his scrambling garners these days?  But then again, isn’t he usually the first one to say all of this is “no big deal”?

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Southern Smoke Repeated By 12-Year-Old Harry Edwards

Southern Smoke Repeated By 12-Year-Old Harry Edwards

Posted April 29, 2013 at 10:35 am · Comments { 6 } · Photo: Harry Edwards on Southern Smoke by Brian Suntay

Don’t tell Joe Kinder or this guy, but it looks like Kinder’s route Southern Smoke (5.14c) in the Red River Gorge is the new go to route for young crushers

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Video Friday – 4/26/2013

Video Friday – 4/26/2013

Posted April 26, 2013 at 7:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ FFA Of Chemical Ali (5.14a) By Kristin Yurdin∞

Posted April 25, 2013 at 12:01 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Nice write-up by DPM about 42-year-old Smith Rock local Kristin Yurdin climbing her first 5.14a with a repeat of Chemical Ali:

[husband] Ian describes a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders.

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