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Daniel Woods Repeating Bridge Of Ashes (V15)

It’s going to take a while for me to get that song out of my head.

Also, some words from Woods on the process of sending this problem in one day can be read here:

This was the first time I had done a boulder of this difficulty in a session. It would not have been possible without the help of Dave. He cleaned this line, battled with it, and overcame. Dave inspires me in a way that he can turn nothing into something majestic. He is a wizard and never fails to amaze.
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Indeed.

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Unfinished Business

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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Any takers?

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Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:

By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.

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Underwhelmed

Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV:

To be downright honest I was underwhelmed – but I also went there with pretty big expectations. There is some potential there, and the Mondo Cave is absolutely enormous, but for now I feel like my time and energy can be better spent elsewhere.
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The cave has great rock, but it also has a lot of poor rock – logistically it’s a little strange.

The expectations game in climbing can be a bit of a mind-f*ck for all of us, not just professionals.  So much of our experience upon first visiting an area is colored by the expectations set prior to that visit by stories and beta gleaned from others as well as a natural excitement I think we all have when seeing a new place.
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 Often times this leads to an underwhelming feeling like the one described by Siegrist, but as with many things in life first impressions are just that.

It’ll be interesting to see what comes of the climbing in Ely over the next decade or two.

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Popular Posts & Videos For April 2013

Popular Posts & Videos For April 2013

The most popular posts and videos for April 2013

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Video Friday – 5/3/2013

Video Friday – 5/3/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Crux Crush Interviews Colette McInerney

Crux Crush, one of the better new climbing sites to crop up of late, has a nice interview with Colette McInerney who recently climbed her first 5.14a in Oliana with a repeat of China Crisis:

In general, and definitely in the climbing world as well, there seems to be a lot of need for people to put things in boxes and control what they mean or what they are. Climbing is definitely a sport that doesn’t need those confines.
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You make climbing what you want, sexy, dirty, in a gym, on a mountain, and take from it what you want. All the other stuff really doesn’t matter.

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