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Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM

Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM

Posted December 29, 2008 at 6:18 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Over the long holiday weekend, Momentum Video Magazine posted up a video by Scott Neel of Lynn Hill’s ascent of Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks. You can check it out by clicking here. As usual, a couple of things jumped out at me while watching the brief video (other than the impressive nature of the climbing).

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Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)

Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)

Posted December 24, 2008 at 6:30 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Here is one last video from the footage that Paul Robinson was kind enough to send along.  This time up he is depicted repeating The Swarm, an “easy” V14 at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA.  Along with Hueco’s Esperanza (V14), The Swarm is the most repeated V14 in the U.S.   Somewhat notable is that […]

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Lynn Hill Chablanke Photos

Posted December 23, 2008 at 8:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Check out Deadpoint Magazine for a few photos of Lynn Hill’s recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks. 

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Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM

Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM

Posted December 23, 2008 at 6:46 am · Comments { 20 } ·

The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.

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Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt

Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt

Posted December 22, 2008 at 7:08 am · Comments { 12 } ·

Check out this incredible video of Brit George Ullrich attempting to flash Gaia.

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Not Much News, Mostly Just Notes – 12/19/2008

Not Much News, Mostly Just Notes – 12/19/2008

Posted December 19, 2008 at 7:55 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Since no other news this week looks that impressive compared with 5.15 sport climbing FAs, here are a few links.

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Nameless Arete

Nameless Arete

Posted December 18, 2008 at 10:17 am · Comments { 16 } ·

The so-called Nameless Arete (V4) at Governor Dodge is one of those problems that can be really frustrating. Based on its grade it shouldn’t be that hard (in the grand scheme of things). However, it requires a certain amount of subtlety and refinement of beta that can be hard to figure out. Especially for me…

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