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Video Friday – 3/27/2015

Posted March 27, 2015 at 8:06 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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2015 SCS Nationals Streaming Live This Weekend

Posted March 25, 2015 at 6:42 am · Comments { 2 } ·

The 2015 edition of SCS Nationals streams live this Friday and Saturday

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Video Friday – 3/20/2015

Posted March 20, 2015 at 7:21 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the last week…

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→ Joe’s Valley: Time For A Change∞

Posted March 19, 2015 at 8:28 am · Comments { 12 } ·

The Access Fund:

As the popularity of Joe’s Valley continues to rise, increased climber traffic is causing some extreme environmental impacts that could threaten access if not addressed.

…snip…

The planning process will continue throughout 2015, with a final plan ready for rollout in early 2016. We ask the climbing community to embrace the changes that are needed at Joe’s Valley.

Anybody who has climbed at Joe’s the past few years can recognize the need for some changes there to create a more sustainable future.  Hopefully with the involvement of the Access Fund and the climbing community we can preserve the awesome resource that is Joe’s Valley.

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Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Open Your Mind Direct

Posted March 18, 2015 at 8:38 am · Comments { 39 } ·

Ashima Shiraishi takes it up a notch in Santa Linya, Spain

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→ Possible 5.14c FA By Mark Anderson∞

Posted March 17, 2015 at 8:33 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Mark Anderson1, writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express:

I’m calling the route Siberian Express.  Based on my maintenance training I can confidently say that I was in top shape when I did it.
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  The weather likely extended the outcome somewhat, but considering my fitness and the twelve days required, I suspect it’s the hardest route I’ve climbed and warrants a 5.
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14c rating.  More importantly, it’s a great route.
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Mark also did the FA of Double Stout at Clear Creek back in January at a proposed grade of 5.14a.

  1.  Not to be confused with his brother Mike who just recently repeated Mission Impossible ↩
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→ The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold∞

Posted March 16, 2015 at 8:14 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine.  Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especially enjoyed this bit about Dean Potter:

Even Dean Potter, an openly spiritual man who describes free-soloing as part of a personal art form that includes base jumping, finds Honnold difficult to understand. “Alex is like Spock,” Potter told me. “I freak out at the top of solos and scream — like, super emotional.
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Then I’m wasted emotionally for months. Alex just does it and walks away and does another.
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”

Honnold doesn’t like this kind of talk; he insists that he worked hard to develop his self-control, and he grows prickly at any suggestion that he is unlike other people. “Before Dean solos something, he has to, like, slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens,” Honnold joked, as if Potter drew on magical aid to see him through danger. “I don’t want to slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens. I just want to climb.”

Funny response from Potter last night on Instagram:

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