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Consequences Of Growth

Posted September 12, 2012 at 10:12 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Gustavo Moser:

The consequences of “growth” are starting to show; the impact on our crags is visible. Shameless ethics and a lack of climbing etiquette are actually changing and indeed damaging the climbing experience. This article is not intended to say what the “right” code of behavior is. It is intended to show that there is a problem and that the people and companies that expect to make a profit or a living from our sport are directly responsible for educating the people who decide to make this discipline a part of their lives.
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He goes on to list several things he feels could be done to address these issues that had me nodding as I read each one.
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2012 World Championships

Posted September 12, 2012 at 6:08 am · Comments { 3 } ·

The 2012 IFSC World Climbing Championships and the 2012 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are underway in Paris today with events filling the rest of the week.  Check out the live stream for a full schedule and to watch as 25 Americans test their skills against the world’s best climbers in pretty much every discipline of competition climbing.  Thanks to commenter Rajiv for this schedule:

Times in EST:

Wednesday:
6am-Noon: Women’s Lead Qualifications

Thursday:
3am-6am: Men’s Lead Qualifications
6am-Noon: Women’s Boulder Qualifications

Friday:
4am-6:30am: Men Bouldering Semi-Finals
8am-Noon: Para-climbing Finals, Female Lead Semi-finals

Saturday:
4am-6:30am: Female Bouldering Semi-Finals, Male Lead Semi-Finals
12:30pm: Male Bouldering Final
2:30pm: Para-climbing Final 2
3:15pm: Female Lead Final
4:15pm: Female Speed Final

Sunday:
7am: Female Bouldering Final
8:30am: Para-climbing Final 3
9:45am: Male Lead Final
10:45: Male Speed Final

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5.14a and b for Audrey Sniezek

Posted September 10, 2012 at 5:19 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

40-year-old Audrey Sniezek’s steady progress through the years has paid off the past couple of weeks at Little Si, WA.
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 A few weeks back she did the FFA of Dr. Evil (5.14a) and now, as detailed in the latest entry in her blog, she’s completed the FFA of Extended Evil (5.14b) which climbs part of Dr. Evil before branching off.

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Hong Warriors Up

Posted September 10, 2012 at 7:01 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Matty Hong has done the 4th ascent of Warrior Up, a V15 at Lincoln Lake first done in 2010 by Daniel Woods.  Photo at The Island.

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Video Friday – 9/7/2012

Video Friday – 9/7/2012

Posted September 7, 2012 at 6:25 am · Comments { 9 } ·

“The Battle” and the top videos of the past week

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“Wrinkles are the last thing on your mind”

Posted September 6, 2012 at 11:57 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Try not to have anything in your mouth if you decide to read this “profile” of Chris Sharma in The New York Times’ fashion blog.

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Outside Interviews Honnold & Mortimer

Posted September 6, 2012 at 7:15 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The run-up to next week’s Reel Rock 7 premier continues, this time with Outside Online interviewing Alex Honnold and Sender Films’ Peter Mortimer.  Honnold on soloing El Cap at night:

About as badass as you’d think. Being up there by yourself during the day feels kind of hardcore, but in the dark it just feels even lonelier. You feel like you’re really all by yourself.
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