Somewhat below the radar at the time I posted about Jonathan Siegrist’s recent exploits at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky was the recent success of Adam Taylor. Taylor, a somewhat controversial figure at the Red last year, completed the so-called Golden Ticket project (bolted by Kenny Barker and attempted by the likes of Chris Sharma in The Players) at the Red’s Chocolate Factory crag to create what is likely the hardest route at the Red.
Taylor is apparently not big on the whole online climbing thing, but he joined the forums at RedRiverClimbing.com long enough to share his thoughts on the route:
As for the route itself… it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren’t pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know… It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating.
Check out Climbing.com for a few pictures and a video of Taylor working the route.
he should name it “suck my balls joe kinder and crew”
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LOL poopyhead.
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50 words for chump was hilarious. I had to read back to see what the controversy was. I remember it, but I never heard the song. Sweet lyrics.
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I still get a bad taste in my mouth when I hear his name. Its great that he opened a new route and all but I just don’t have respect for someone who doesn’t respect the rock.
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Seems to me he didn’t so much disrespect the rock as the extra bolts…
Not that that’s much better, but it’s not like he was going around chipping holds off or anything.
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Well put Josh.
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@dan,
taking a hammer to some bolts still harms the rock. Either way, Adam’s ethics are a bit off base.
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50 words is water under the bridge at this point.
Luckily, everyone who was involved is out sending strong and enjoying everything the Fall has to offer for climbing.
I know not many so called “red locals” would encourage this, but I think everyone needs to come down here and see how awesome the climbing is…this place is legit and has tons of hard routes left to develop.
This is just the beginning 😉
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Well put Niles. It’s very cool to read/see people taking things to the next level at the Red.
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So is putting bolts into the rock in the first place.
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“harming the rock”? go give it a hug if you feel bad for it. removing bolts did less damage than adding new ones. i fell dumber just reading this. and i ain’t smart, i cant afford to be much dumber.
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“i fell dumber just reading this. and i ain’t smart, i cant afford to be much dumber.”
True that!
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EggHEAD! you are too easy son…hahaha. nerd.
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How long until Jon Siegrist gets the 2nd?? The guy’s on fire. http://www.jstarinorbit.com/
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I was just thinking the same thing.
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Yeah, dude is killing it. Definitely cool to see what happens as more uber-strongmos spend extended amounts of time at the Red.
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Did you really need to give this guy any press. He is the OJ Simpson of climbing.
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your stupid
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i mean i’m stupid. you are stupid. arggg
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Damn. LOL.
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This route feels a level harder than 50 words left and lucifer, both well established 14c’s. That makes it 14d and one of the most difficult in the states. Adam, a RRG local and very modest person, works it for a long ass time and snags the FA over an impressive list of “pros” including chris sharma.
I don’t see a bad taste in any of that. In fact, it tastes so good Lifetime already bought the movie rights.
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Just was looking around and ended up on this thread and have to say that more climbers should be like Adam. one of the most humble and nicest guys you will come across.
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