Well, Saturday night’s SCS Nationals Final at Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA ended up being pretty exciting.
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For the women it was Delaney Miller winning her 3rd consecutive National Championship ahead of Margo Hayes and Claire Buhrfeind.
For the men it was Kai Lightner coming through big in his first adult rope nationals, besting the surprising Jesse Grupper and Matty Hong.
| Men’s Final Results | Women’s Final Results |
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Thanks again to everyone who tuned in to our live broadcasts throughout the weekend. We had a lot of fun bringing you all the action, and I can’t wait to do it again next year!
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I really enjoyed this coverage. Commentary and camera work keep getting better and better and are at a professional level. I would have enjoyed a little less coyness when telling us who Alex Puccio is (consider a broader audience, not just climbers in-the-know), and in general more homework (stats/facts/background/accomplishments) on the other climbers. Example: Elan Jonas Mcrae routinely makes semis on the IFSC world cup circuit and, I believe, is one of only three climbers (Puccio, McColl being the others) from all of North America who regularly compete at that level. But that’s just splitting hairs. Well done!
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Many thanks for the feedback. We (and by we I mainly mean LT11) put in a lot of work to consistently improve the show and it’s always good to hear from people that recognize that.
I continue to struggle with how best to do the appropriate amount of research within the time constraints we have though. It’s really unfeasible to research every climber in the competition beforehand for several reasons, and then there is not much time between semis and finals to nail things down. Not to mention there were a lot of finalists in this comp in particular. We did get some better processes in place to be able to relay basic info like age/location, and I’ll continue to work harder on building on that. I agree though that this is a big area for improvement.
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It would be cool to know some physical stats like ape index for each climber.
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I think places like ESPN use computers to do their research for them. There’s a company in my town that sells the “product” of coming up with english sounding computer generated stats: http://automatedinsights.com/ Using some service like that would probably cost money but make it easy to come up with those stats.
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Also a longtime watcher who’s enjoyed the improvements over the years. The professionalism especially is getting to the next level. Inviting route setters and climbers to comment adds another element too (the route setter this comp was good at articulating about his work). I’ve been taking to inviting climber friends over, cracking a beverage and watching it streamed on my TV from the couch.
Feedback is I agree other tidbits to differentiate people is nice – ape index, home gym, home crag, recent injuries, preferred climbing style, how long they’ve been climbing, do they attend university, last big climbing trip, their favorite competitor, big influences…I think maybe you poll competitors before when they enter? That’d have pros/cons, you’d have people that didn’t care to put down much or the truth, then also people who’d wax on a lot and give fascinating stuff perhaps.
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There is a small questionnaire climbers are given when they register which is where we get much of the information, but it suffers from the exact problems you mention.
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And, for the future, the challenge with giving climbers questionnaires in ISO (which is when they were given it for this comp and other USAC comps I’ve been at) is that most high performance athletes have a routine, and they stick to it. It helps, greatly, for many reasons. It is kinda unreasonable to ask them to fill this out in ISO… Maybe lt11 asked for them to be given out at registration, but they weren’t. Best would be to do what other sports do, which is to start to create a database, that can be filled in NOT during competition. The IFSC is slowly starting to do this, but they have fewer staff than USAC ;). Maybe asking climbers to fill in details on-line, when they register, could help? But once they hit the actual comp environment, it should be business time. Agreed that announcers shouldn’t necessarily have to do the research. Those that are promoting the sport should be gathering info… Aspirational next steps?
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I’m a little surprised there hasn’t been more press on Kai Lightner’s impressive win.
I can only imagine what he’ll be able to accomplish in the coming years, particularly outdoors, when he has more time to climb.
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Apparently he’s going to Spain shortly: https://instagram.com/p/0zm0LLyd4o/?taken-by=chris_sharma
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Agreed that the casts are getting better and better. One thing I would suggest is for the commentators to have a rounded table to sit at. This allows them to have a more natural looking conversation between themselves as well as still be able to talk to the camera. If you watch any sportscenter or casting of pretty much any athletic event the commentators are almost never seated side by side at a table but rather sitting at 45 degree angles with respect to the camera and each other.
This is minor perhaps but as they say “The Devil is in the Details”.
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I’ve wanted to do this as well, but we are generally stymied by a) lack of space or b) lack of suitable tables for this. Definitely something I want to figure out for next year.
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Present a la American NInja Warior. Sorry Narc, time to hang up the chalky mic and invite some washed up gym climber bros give a more unintentional hysterical commentary. Same content, just different delivery. And stand up – do your sitting off camera.
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Narc, you use interns for those types of mundane things, not your own time! Seriously, I think you could easily find an intern or two willing to help out in return for a special backstage pass, etc.
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Totally agree about a fantastic job well done narc and LT11.
One thing I would give for feedback is very rarely did the camera pan back to you guys at the table during interviews. Would have loved to actually see you guys when you interviewed Kai instead of listen to it while we watch them set up the speed wall.
Also, as a future thing to put on the LT11 wish list, instant replay of exactly where they fell or replay of an awesome Dyno, etc, would kick so much ass.
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Thanks for the feedback. Both of those things were issues related to equipment limitations with this particular event. Due to a shortage of cameras the one that is normally trained on the booth full time needed to be turned around filming the climbing and switching back and forth was a nontrivial exercise.
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Totally agree that instant replays would give coverage that extra level of polish. I’m sure you’ll get there!
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