Archive | March, 2015

Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Open Your Mind Direct

Posted March 18, 2015 at 8:38 am · Comments { 39 } ·

Ashima Shiraishi takes it up a notch in Santa Linya, Spain

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→ Possible 5.14c FA By Mark Anderson∞

Posted March 17, 2015 at 8:33 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Mark Anderson1, writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express:

I’m calling the route Siberian Express.  Based on my maintenance training I can confidently say that I was in top shape when I did it.
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  The weather likely extended the outcome somewhat, but considering my fitness and the twelve days required, I suspect it’s the hardest route I’ve climbed and warrants a 5.
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14c rating.  More importantly, it’s a great route.
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Mark also did the FA of Double Stout at Clear Creek back in January at a proposed grade of 5.14a.

  1.  Not to be confused with his brother Mike who just recently repeated Mission Impossible ↩
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→ The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold∞

Posted March 16, 2015 at 8:14 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine.  Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especially enjoyed this bit about Dean Potter:

Even Dean Potter, an openly spiritual man who describes free-soloing as part of a personal art form that includes base jumping, finds Honnold difficult to understand. “Alex is like Spock,” Potter told me. “I freak out at the top of solos and scream — like, super emotional.
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Then I’m wasted emotionally for months. Alex just does it and walks away and does another.
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”

Honnold doesn’t like this kind of talk; he insists that he worked hard to develop his self-control, and he grows prickly at any suggestion that he is unlike other people. “Before Dean solos something, he has to, like, slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens,” Honnold joked, as if Potter drew on magical aid to see him through danger. “I don’t want to slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens. I just want to climb.”

Funny response from Potter last night on Instagram:

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Video Friday – 3/13/2015

Posted March 13, 2015 at 8:05 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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→ The Dawn Wall Interviews∞

Posted March 12, 2015 at 8:06 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell.  I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is so relentlessly positive even in the face of a seemingly insurmountable challenge like the Dawn Wall:

It helps to have almost died a few times in your life! [Laughs.] That brings things into perspective! I think the hard things I’ve gone through have made me want to embrace every day to its absolute fullest.
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Those experiences have helped make me who I am today. But part of that is also being a part of a great community and having my own great role model in my dad.
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I mean, my dad is absurdly optimistic, and that’s contagious.
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→ Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA∞

Posted March 10, 2015 at 6:00 am · Comments { 0 } ·

PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat:

It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky.

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New 5.15 From Chris Sharma In Spain

Posted March 9, 2015 at 6:16 am · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Chris Sharma on his new 5.15 in Spain

Chris Sharma is “back” with another 5.15 in Spain

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