Nice interview with surprise ABS Nationals winner Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi by his home gym in the U.S., Earth Treks Climbing in Golden, CO:
For me, winning championships comes second. The thing that is most important to me is being able to travel and build relationships with climbers and people from all over the world.
Lost in all the controversy over the scoring system was the great performance turned in by Mohammad.
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From the interview it sounds like he will be in the U.S. for a few years, so I think we can look forward to seeing him compete again.
Hi Narc, a question on the score calculation discussion:
How big is the impact of the score calculation on the strategy of a competitor? Do contestants calculate their chances and decide based on that if they put strength into another try on a problem? It didn’t look to me that way while I was watching the ABS. But then I have no real insight into competitions.
When I was fighting in Judo competitions in my youth though, our coaches always told us we had to aim for an indisputable win, as you are always at the mercy of the judges if you can not score a clear point.
That would be the equivalent to toping more problems than anybody else. So do you think the discussion is a valid one or just another nerd rage out there?
Thanks Robert
And of course thanks for running this great platform and for moderating the Nationals. Great job :).
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It’s important to remember that under this and previous scoring formats the competitors are not kept in the loop as to what their scores are during the competition. Previous formats did make it easier for them to have a sense for where they were at, but I don’t think they could ever know that they needed to get to a specific hold to advance. Obviously they always had a sense for how many tops they would need or not need, and that didn’t really change.
I think the complexity of the format this year made it such that the competitors really had no clue where they stood (other than tops) because the scoring algorithm is based on so many factors/uses complex math to spit out the ranking points that subtle differences in one climber’s score rippled through the entire results.
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