Archive | November, 2014

→ Dave Pegg, Prominent Climber And Guidebook Publisher Is Gone∞

Posted November 10, 2014 at 1:25 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

DPM‘s Mikey Williams, writing about the passing of Dave Pegg:

Dave founded Wolverine Publishing in the early 2000s and quickly changed the landscape of climbing guidebooks forever. His first major publication was a collaborative effort with author Ray Ellington on a guidebook to the Red River Gorge. It had all the elements we now expect from a quality guide: full color action shots, essays written by prominent locals, digital images of the cliff face with the topo lines drawn in, and thorough, entertaining route descriptions.
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Over the last decade, Wolverine Publishing seized the reins as the leader in quality guidebooks releasing dozens of books to America’s most popular climbing areas like Smith Rock, Rifle, Maple Canyon, Bishop, Hueco, and the New River Gorge.
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→ Dave Pegg∞

Posted November 10, 2014 at 9:08 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Sad news from Rock & Ice about the passing of prolific route developer and guidebook publisher Dave Pegg:

To say that Dave was a serious climber is an understatement. Rifle, and then Main Elk Canyon, were his loves, and he was one of those people you could find on the rock, in any weather, just about every day. Dave was perpetually eager, always beaming about a project or near send even when his knees and shins were bloodied and scabbed—I never saw them any other way—from working kneebars.

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Jorg Verhoeven Frees The Nose

Posted November 7, 2014 at 7:26 am · Comments { 22 } · Photo: Jorg Verhoeven climbing The Great Roof by Jon Glassberg

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven becomes only the 4th person to free climb The Nose on Yosemite’s El Capitan

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Video Friday – 11/7/2014

Posted November 7, 2014 at 6:56 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ “A True Midwestern Climber”∞

Posted November 6, 2014 at 10:56 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Alex Honnold, writing about his record-setting experience at the 2014 edition of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell:

By the end of the day our skin was wrecked and our bodies hurt, but we’d done a ton of amazing climbing. I did something like 150 pitches, averaging around 5.11c, which was good enough to retake the individual point record, which now stands at 43,490.

…snip…

It was impressive that people who’d been up climbing for 24 hours straight could find the energy to party so hard. I certainly couldn’t — I went to bed early, which I guess just means I don’t have what it takes to be a true Midwestern climber.

I think I can speak for the entire Midwest here when I say that we would be OK with adopting Alex into the Midwest climbing club.  I mean, the guy does have some skills even if they don’t involve partying all night after climbing for 24 hours straight.

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→ The Transient Power Of Travel∞

Posted November 5, 2014 at 8:57 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind after returning from the final leg of this year’s Petzl Roc Trip:

Often, the flashiness of the itinerant lifestyle is held up as the antidote to our modern malaise, our workaday routine that keeps us moving predictably, as if on rails. I tend to think that the best we can do is to seek a balance between motion and stasis, to move when it’s time to move and also to stay put when it makes sense, letting the contrast of the one enhance and inform the other.
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→ The Future Of Climbing∞

Posted November 4, 2014 at 9:11 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Climbing Business Journal reports from a recent meeting of “an informal group of leaders in the climbing industry” where issues like routesetter safety and poor behavior at outdoor crags were discussed.  This part in particular caught my eye:

Travis Herbert, Education Director from The Access Fund suggested that industry groups “need to make it cool to be stewards” of the outdoors. He also suggested that the social norms need to change so that it “doesn’t count” if you sent a v15 but trashed the crag in the process.
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The climbing media, particularly groups that put out popular climbing videos, and the elite athletes that are featured in them, can play an important role in making ethical outdoor behavior fun, approachable and normal.
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I think this idea that what is portrayed in climbing media/videos can really have an impact on access issues is an important point, one that is driven home by the Access Fund’s “Commit to the Pact” video which was just recently launched.

The video features a long list of well-known climbers encouraging us all to commit to being responsible in the outdoors which is something I 100% agree with.
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 What I also think is equally as important is that these same climbers demonstrate through their actions, whether those actions are filmed for a climbing video, posted on Instagram or done the old-fashioned way with no electronic record of any kind1, that these values are important to them in practice as well.  Like it or not, when regular climbers see high profile professional climbers engaging in poor behavior like climbing on private property, making too much noise, hiking off established trails or using and not cleaning off excessive tick marks just to name a few, this creates an implicit reaction in many of us that this behavior is ok for us to do as well.

As far as it pertains to this site, I have always tried to my best to avoid promoting bad behavior, but I’m sure I have not been perfect on this by any stretch.  If you see something posted on this site that you feel violates the spirit of the Access Fund’s pact do let me know and I will be happy to take a look.

  1.  Nobody does that anymore though, right? ↩
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