Archive | March, 2014

First V14 For Mirko Caballero

Mirko Caballero tops out his first V14 at the age of 13

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Adventure Rock Opening 2nd Location

There are a lot of new gyms opening around the country these days, but the announcement this week that my home gym, Adventure Rock, is opening a 2nd location later this year was really exciting to finally see:

Adventure Rock Climbing Gym, the premier climbing facility in Wisconsin, announces plans for the construction of its second location in the city of Milwaukee.  The facility will be located on the Eastside at 2240 North Commerce Street; construction is expected to break ground mid-summer of 2014 for an official opening in December of 2014.

The climbing wall manufacturer chosen for the job is Boulder, Colorado based Eldorado Climbing Walls.
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The climbing wall design for the facility includes over 18,000 square feet of climbing terrain, with wall heights up to 42 feet tall, of that terrain, 2,000 square feet will be dedicated to bouldering.
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The facility will also include a dedicated fitness area, pro-shop and some of the most helpful staff in the industry.
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I can’t wait to check it out!

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Video Friday – 3/21/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week

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What Girls Think (About Climbing With Dudes)

These are the true stories of female climbers–from five-year old girls who only climb the routes in the gym that have purple tape, to professional female climbers who have established routes on multiple continents, competed for national titles, and ticked countless 5.
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14s. And of course, all of us in between.
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Don’t be that guy…

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“If you love to fish, you fish”

So many gems in this Ascent article by Dave Graham it was hard to pick my favorite, but this part really stuck with me:

I used to come home from fishing by myself and wonder what I needed to report. Should I lie or exaggerate to make it sound like it went great, when in reality it sucked because I caught no fish? It only sucked to catch no fish because there were people to impress, or people who might have thought less of me if I caught no fish.
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But if you love to fish, you fish.

Read the whole thing.

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3rd Ascent Of Mission Impossible By Mark Anderson

Rock & Ice has the story on Mark Anderson’s 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods’ Mission Impossible (5.14c-ish) at Clear Creek Canyon, CO:

A self-proclaimed “weekend warrior,” the 36-year-old Anderson supervises a team of computer engineers and fathers two kids with his wife Kate while not pulling down at the crag.

“I love climbing, but I also love other things life has to offer,” he says. “Living in Colorado, where there is so much convenient access to rock makes it possible to balance my climbing passion with a fulfilling family life and career.”

Awesome.

UpdateNice post from Mark himself  on his blog

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Chasing Goals Not Grades

Nice interview by Crux Crush with Alex Puccio:

I want to push myself outside. I haven’t tried many V13s so maybe I’ll try to do my first V13, but I don’t like chasing a grade.
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I like to find a climb, and it’d be great if I found a climb that’s hard for me, but I have to be inspired by it. Everyone’s like, “You can climb V13, probably V14. Why haven’t you gone and found one?” But that’s the thing, I don’t want to go search for one. I like climbing outside because it’s fun and I want to try hard things, but I want it to come organically. I’ve never tried anything longer than 3 or 4 days.

It’s kind of crazy to think that Puccio has never done a V13 given her obvious talent and all her success on the comp circuit, but surely it’s just a matter of time.
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