Archive | September, 2013

Save Oak Flat

Shit:

There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Arizona to Resolution Copper Mining, a foreign owned mining company. All 435 members of the House of Representatives will have the opportunity to cast a vote on this legislation, yet many of them know little or nothing about the bill–except what the bill sponsors have told them.

If this bill (HR 687) should become law, it will result in the largest loss of a climbing resource in the history of the United States.

The vote is tomorrow, so if you want to attempt to make your voice heard today is the day.

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Climber Shot In Ten Sleep

While the good news I shared this morning from Ten Sleep is still great news, this is not great news out of Ten Sleep:

Around 2:00 a.m. on Monday, September 16, a climber from Ecuador was shot outside his tent in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, the popular sport climbing destination.

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El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2013 Season

It’s baaaaack:

So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to head up on ElCap with old Captain Tom!

It should be an interesting season with Tommy Caldwell’s Dawn Wall project set to continue this season provided that the devastating floods near Caldwell’s home in Estes Park haven’t derailed his plans.

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Bellavista

Bellavista, Alex Huber’s route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian did the FFA of the route with partner Edu Marin.  At the time I didn’t feel as though I had a real sense for what this route must be like though.  I mean, what does a climbing on a big wall of limestone like this really look like?
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 Fortunately, Alan Cassidy and Dave MacLeod are in Italy right now trying the route, and Cassidy posted this report after day 1:

So that was it we were there, under that big roof. I am truly struggling to convey the feeling of being perched on the belay seat under that enormous roof as I watched Dave disappear round the corner out of sight to equip the crux pitches (8c, 8a).
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It was eerily calm and the warmest I had been all day. I heard little from Dave but was well aware of the constant trickle of falling stones coming from the gully at the side of the cliff an the chatter of tourists ambling their way round the Tre Cime. Looking at the void under the roof I felt a strong unease, not fear, just that sense of there being more comfortable things to be doing with your spare time. All of a sudden a yelp, followed by a falling rock, followed by a falling Dave appeared. The first time either of us had succumbed to the almost inevitable hold failure.

MacLeod has also updated his blog with a post on their efforts with some pictures that give you a good sense of the challenge they’re up against.

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Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber’s Coalition

Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon.  Once an area you just heard rumors about1, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice.  Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.

This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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 Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep.  Nice work!

  1.  I recall hearing about it back in 2001 while visiting the Wild Iris
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Boulder Flood

What else is there to say about the flooding that has taken place all along Colorado’s Front Range the past few days that hasn’t already been said?

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adidas Rockstars 2013 Live

adidas Rockstars 2013 Live

Tune in here Saturday, September 14th at 1:15 PM EDT to catch Finals of the 2013 adidas Rockstars live from the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart, Germany

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