According to a post on the Bouldering Facebook page, Dan Beall has repeated Fred Nicole’s Terremer (V15) in Hueco Tanks. This was the 4th ascent after Nicole, Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods of the link-up of Diaphanous Sea and Terre De Sienne.
Terremer (V15) Repeated By Dan Beall
Posted In: Asides, Bouldering, News
Climbers: Dan Beall
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35 Responses to Terremer (V15) Repeated By Dan Beall
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Great…! Can’t wait to see the un-cut footage…!
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Do you know something we don’t?
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I can’t wait to see the un-cut footage of Fred’s ascent—or the second or third.
Or Wolfgang’s ascent of Action Directe for that matter.
Suspicious trolls are suspicious.
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So sad when we live in an age where everything must be video confirmed before we believe. Maybe I am old fashioned?
Remember that a lot of people still do this wonderful activity for the enjoyment of it or to push themselves to new places, not to update their 8a, post a video, or bolster their sponsorship resume.
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We live in a competitive world..always have and always will.
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Dan Beall is the real thing as anyone who seriously follows the contemporary bouldering scene knows.
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Would you say that he is the real deal, Peter Beal?
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Seeing people take down big rigs is sick; reading or hearing about it isn’t quite as satisfiying 🙁 Dave Graham pretty much did it too, in dosage 4, if not for slicing his finger.
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a rig is that a trucker drives. a boulder problem is what someone climbs.
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It’s a piece of rock in the middle of nowhere. You can call it whatever you want.
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Don’t you know that there are more important battles to fight, like how much your legs can or cannot be bent when you hop on the wall to send your rig?
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Uuhhh… Everybody knows that a knee angle between 10 and 95 degrees constitutes a ‘sit start’ (give or take 5degs based on the elevation of said ‘rig’). For every degree past 100, you must subtract 50pts off of your 8a scorecard. Duh.
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with that said, i will being referring to my problems as homeless crackwhore soiled diapers.
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We climb up rocks that usually have backsides we can walk up.
Seems like a pretty proud send! Get inspired to go climb something today.
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I am from The hometown where Dan grew up and I know this Dan personally and their family. . Ok….this is like actually very pesonal for me because I have been saying this for years. Yes, Dan can crimp…He has a very strong crimp..But I started climbing around the same time as Dan. We actually went climbing together with his father ‘Peter’. I believe Dan Can climb really strong…Like I would have no doubt believing that Dan after all this time climbing actually sent these amazing projects. Let me remind you, Jade, Black Mamba, The Swarm, Center Direct or something…These are all humanly possible and Dan is a very smart and strong kid…BUT. Climbing is driven by competition….and a strive to be the best. I believe Dan had a lot of motivation to ‘be the best’ but I have talked to a lot of people that have doubts on whether or not Dan is telling the truth about these sends or maybe he is bluffing to get ahead of himself as a distinguished climber al though the media said he ‘sort of plays the “dug out” or what ever. You be the judge..But until I see video of him sending these hard projects or a lineage photo sequence from some sort of distinguished photographer or someone who is reputable, then I can’t . It’s like Akira and Fred Rouhling. Fuck yeah the dude is hella strong but….Like…did he send? shit….All I know is that when I was little and ripped at skateboarding all i wanted was to rip, when the big dudes asked me if I could 360 flip I was like YEAH BOyee!! Even though I had been really close but never really busted it. Sorry, Dan but you got’s TO FILM THAT SHIT KIDDO! I do not want any animosity towards me because I put my real name and my address. I am not a coward Unless your about to beat my ass…(i might run) but I just feel this is right because there are so many kids out there who are trying SO FUCKING HARD to climb at this level and for someone to take a short cut and cop out all these people and claim that hard. I just think it is crucial to provide some proof that you deserve this elite ness is a very very competitive sport and one of the hardest sports to earn a living at….I knew that after experiencing climbing like I did I REALLY WANTED TO LIVE MY LIFE AS A PROFESSIONAL CLIMBER (like some of my close friends and aquaintences). I loved it so much I wanted to get that good. But it was not cut out for me! I didn’t have that discipline. And I believe Dan has all this I just WANT TO SEE THE FOOTAGE or even a possible reputable witness to these climbs would be alright. I would say as far a witness…Also wasn’t this Dan’s First Trip to the tanks. GOOD JOB JUST RE DO THE PROBLEMS YOU GOT TICKED ON VIDEO AND THEN people will believe you dude. I mean…Shit….That is like the Hardest climb at the tanks dude. You can’t believe people to have no doubt without a picture or vid.
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Also “Dan Beall is the real deal.” Peter Beal is Dan’s Dad. That comment was left by Dan’s Father. If you did not get this from my rant. Good guy…..Great dude…But sorry Peter you can’t be THE witness. Just one of em! 🙂
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I’m guessing this would be news to Peter
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Hey Scotty, good to hear from you, hope you’re doing well.
I know it’s been 6 or 7 years since we last had the chance to hang out, but my father is Greg Beall, not Peter Beal. Peter is a well known figure in the climbing community and writes the http://www.mountainsandwater.com/ blog.
I’m a little confused by your diatribe up there, but it seems like the gist of it is “no video, didn’t happen”. That’s understandable, I’d probably be a little skeptical too. For a long time I was worried about that, as I don’t have video of most of my hardest sends. I don’t have a big posse following me around when I climb, and with projects that are really at your limit, it’s both impractical and demotivating to try to film hundreds of goes. For things that are moderately hard, I feed off the energy of a big group, and frequently send buoyed by the psyche, shit talking and friendly competition that accompany it. At the very top end though, the things that take 100%, perfect conditions, perfect skin, perfect beta and a good helping of luck, I prefer to be alone. That’s just how I like to play the game. Partially because of that, I try not to make a big deal out of my sends. I don’t get paid, and I don’t really want the extra pressure and scrutiny that would come with that. Climbing is an amazing sport because it is what you make of it. As anyone who’s participated in it knows, it can be competitive, public, private, meditative, dangerous, whatever. I’ve found over the years that I don’t like the attention and expectations that come with making headlines, and I’ve made some efforts to avoid them. That said, if I do something cool, I feel entitled to tell my friends. If one of them then posts something on facebook and it makes it’s way to dpm or some such, I don’t feel obligated to defend myself to the world.
So, believe whatever you like. I’m not trying to deceive anyone, I’m not trying to impress anyone. I’m just trying to enjoy myself out climbing and hanging out with my friends.
As a final thought, as far as “hardest climb in Hueco” and all that, there were all kinds of things there I couldn’t do. Climbing is morpho and style and condition and psyche dependent. Terremer fit me well and still felt incredibly hard. It took 7 days and around 150 total tries to send. That’s just how climbing is.
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“That is like the Hardest climb at the tanks dude.”
Isn’t Desperanza the hardest climb at the tanks?
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Can we all just agree to end this banter by saying that Dave Graham is the best. Narc find me some old Dave movies from his Rumney days(not Dave Graham’s Rumney) pleeeeeaaaasssseeeee
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So I just want to get one thing straight…no one was with you Dan when you sent any of your hardest projects…Thats pretty incredible…everywhere I go seems to have teams of people milling around…I think I should go climbing with you…I hate crowds…
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Whats up Dan, Sorry about the mix up. I have no idea who Peter Beal is but I do know your dad and he is a cool dude, sorry for the mix up. But I just want to get this straight. You sent Tierre Mere alone? And then told your friend about it? I don’t understand. But yah, doing things alone is cool I agree. It’s quiet no time pressure, no judgements. Just you and the rock. But when Your doing something like that hard….It’s good to have somewhere there who can be a witness to your send. Especially because they are so hard….So was anyone there when you sent it?
I mean Danny your gettin’ strong dude…You need to take the documentation of these great repeats more seriously. It is just more credible with some sort of source such as pictures, or video, or someone who is a credible source, Something more than if you sent something like this by yourself….happened to mention it to your friend who then blogged it on their face book fan page. You should film the send. No pose downs. Peace.
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I don’t want to be the hair that ruined the soup but….If you didn’t have anyone there Dan….Or a credible source for the climbs that you have repeated. There is gonna be some loom about the credibility of your achivments my friend.
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But no doubt, good send. Peace out champ. Keep crushin’ kid.
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I know both Scotty and Dan and think it is pretty screwed up that Scotty tried to call Dan out in a public forum like this. Yes Scott, you did grow up with Dan in terms of you both climbed at the same gym as kids. Yes, you do know him. So why, then, would you not talk to him about this personally rather than putting him on blast over the internet. Moreover, if you are going to insult somebody and talk down to them by calling them “kiddo” or “champ,” maybe you should take the time to spell/grammar check your writing. It is hard to take your charges seriously when they are levied in such a incoherent manner and are riddled with errors both substantive and typographical. Put down the pipe, act like an adult, and confront Dan face to face about why you think you deserve to see footage of him pursuing his personal passion or leave it alone.
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Bryce,
Thanks for your comment. I will take that into consideration,.
F.Y.I If I still lived in the same town as Dan I would definately ask him face to face.
Also dude, you don’t really know me. We worked at the same climbing gym.
Thanks again.
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I agree with Scott, no matter how modest you are about climbing, when you send the hardest thing around word will get out. climbing v15 is a huge achievment in the climbing community and the idea that you keep it to yourself for the sake of being “modest” is kind of unrealistic. If you were truly modest and only climb for personal pleasure, then you would deny that fact that you had sent v15 even if you accully did climb it. That would bring you no attention in the media like you said you wanted. Honestly I think the fact that you climbed huecos hardest is bs, I don’t care how modest a climber is, if they truly climb the worlds hardest, someone is going to want to be there and document every attempt, even if it means filming weeks of failed attempts. When you said you don’t have a posse is kind of a lie in itself, I’ve seen you in the buttermilks and black mountain and both times you had a somewhat large group of people in you’re “posse” so it’s hard to believe that the times you sent your hardest you just happened to be alone. Sorry for calling you out, and major respect if you did truly send these magnificent test pieces, but it’s 2014 dude, and liars are flocking like the salmon of the Capistrano.
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As someone who does climb with Dan regularly (and typically at Black Mountain and the Buttermilks) I can attest that we don’t all pile in the van for every long road trip Dan goes on. We are not professional climbers and have to stay in SD and work. Case in point: Dan’s recent trip to CO was solo. I admit this ascent occurred before I (and H and Jess) climbed with Dan, but I think the point still stands (also, if we are the posse you’re talking about it, it is not relevant to Dan’s Hueco trip). There aren’t a lot of people in SD who are down to go on every trip Dan goes on, or free enough to climb on his schedule and thus he often climbs alone.
Do you deny that you sent your projects Sven? That is ludicrous. Just because someone doesn’t seek media attention outright does not mean they climb in secret.
Lastly, If you’re going to defame someone online use your full name or better yet, if you see him at Black or the Milks, talk to him instead of posting semi anonymously to a site.
All that said, people say silly things sometimes, and when we eventually meet you in the tiny world of climbing (/Black/the Milks) I’m not inclined to hold a mistaken post against you.
SG if the response below was you, you’ve seen Dan plenty of times in the past year. Maybe you could have brought it up then instead of feeding this.
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Thank u for agreeing with me. Jeez. All I’m saying is it’s been almost 2 years since this post and all I’m wondering is where the new ascents r at??
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If I ever see you chipping holds I will publicly announce that too. Respect the ethic. Maybe you should stick to the books rather than climbing. I see right through you. You can fool some people sometines, but you can’t fool all the people all the time. If I am wrong I apologize. N if you want to know more about the chipping suspicion I have. Plz get in contact with me through face book. I got the same name there as well.
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I’m sorry I hate to put negativity out there. I try to practice conciousness and positive energy. N I def failed at this in these posts. I have my beliefs n respect dans appeal to not getting defensive. I have my thoughts n they are somewhat unhealthy. But. I believe they are worthy of speculation when examining the progress of dans career as a climber especially when regarding these v14 n v15 sends and notably some of San Diego hard climbing as well. I’ve seen one v11 that he put up. The start is contrived. Being able to sit start from the better hold and also I believe is worthy of a downgrade. The line was also originally spotted by myself but was not given credit for that. I woukd also like to criticize his ascent if misspent youth. I just believe that if there is some falsifying of these ascents. Everything that you do should be in speculation including misspent youth at mt. Woodson. That’s it. I feel horrible posting this but I think it’s important. As far as chopping goes. I only showed a couole people my project at mt. Woodson n I feel like if someone chipped tge lone next to misspent youth n somehow figured out where my project is….I don’t know anyone who would go to that length. But if what I am saying is true. I woukd not hesitate to pony fingers at you. I guess I’ll never know. So from now on for my health I will leave this alone n focus on my projects. . Again I apologize. But the evidence is not there. 150 times in 7 days? That’s like 15 times a day. With no one seeing you ? I d k man. The swarm alone? Jade alone? It all seems very serene. But I argue that who have the experience or wisdom to understand that. Especially when climbing around ppl does not line up to what a v15 climber displays.
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Again. I apologize for the negativity. Cheers to all the folks that climb for climbing n love it. That’s all. I apologize to Dan for any controversy but I see lots of kids lying for ego boosts. I got in where I fit in. N that’s my journey. I like to leave things on a good note n the upper comment was harsh. Lying and chipping aren’t in my vocabulary. So I she’d light on sone stuff that’s bugging me. But it’s right to leave it alone bc I’m not the person who has to live with that kind of shit. It’s not like hurting anyone physically but small things like that reveal a large part about who someone is deep down, and regarding chipping a large disrespect to ethics. Which traditionally is totally unethical! Especially if the hold was not gonna break! Or need altering. They have to live with these I guess you could say. Concious flaws. I have to live with a few of my own but I work on them everyday. This maybe being one of them. But I am working on them. N live with that. Always hoping to gain knowledge n wisdom. Peace. Know your history know your place.
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Climbing can reveal a lot about yourself. When you look closely.
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N then all the injuries…since this post. Idkt just doesn’t add up to me. I’m dunno. Peace.
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LOL.
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