Andrew Bisharat shares several good tips he gleaned from a session with climbing coach Justen Sjong including this tidbit that really struck home for me personally:
Because I want to be a “good” climber and I want others to perceive me as such, it seems as though I am often trying too hard to look solid and in control. I hold my breathe, even, to not give that audible clue that I’m actually trying hard.
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I try to be controlled and static on moves.
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And above all, my biggest weakness, as Justen pointed out, was that I have trouble giving 100 percent most of the time. It takes a lot for me to put myself out that far.…snip…
In other words, if I try my hardest and fail, then everyone will know just how weak I am.
The reason for this mentality differs from person to person, but I think there is something to this that affects many of us.
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I know that the idea that other people are usually watching and my innate desire to not look like a punter in front of them has had a real impact on my development as a climber. Throw in the fact that I’m now super famous because of this website1 and it’s any wonder I climb with people around at all any more2.
Anyway, read the article and try to learn a few ways to make yourself a better climber in 2012.
Come on Narc, I’d say you’re a medium to large fish in the incredibly small sea that is the climbing blogosphere. Just ignore the open ocean out there.
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Brave and humble, Douglas. Brave and humble.
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He’s about to downgrade the climbing blogosphere…
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I also trained with Sjong for a few weeks. It was for an article for a mag, but it never materialized, as my bum should melted down. He is quite a good trainer though. Sure knows how to break you down and start building you back up.
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I’d wondered at the time about Dave Graham’s comment in REACH about how he feels he has had to become a better person to climb as hard as he does. I now suspect that he meant something like what this article discusses in the last page. Cool read.
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