Despite some challenging conditions Dai Koyamanda, Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods have all been getting it done on the boulders of Switzerland of late.
Koyamada has spent much of his time escaping to the higher elevations at Sustenpass where he’s done the FA of Paradise Lost (V13/14) and Daedalus Direct (V14/15). He’s also repeated Daedalus (V14) and Phase 2 (V14).
According to his 8a scorecard Adam Ondra spent last weekend braving the less than stellar conditions in Magic Wood. On Saturday he repeated Chris Sharma’s Practice Of The Wild (V15), and on Sunday he sent both Remembrance Of Things Past (V14) and the recent Dai Koyamada addition Dark Matter (V14).
Also in Magic Wood was Daniel Woods who claimed the FA of the sitstart to Muttertag. The sit start adds a two move V13 into the one move V11 of the stand.
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He gave the new line a name of Mystic Stylez and a suggested grade of V151.
- Adherents to “the equation” would question this grading math since V13 into V11 would “normally” equal V14, but since I’ve never seen the problem and Woods actually climbed it we’ll defer to him. ↩
Since I’ve never seen the problem I obviously can’t say for sure, but I would guess it’s one of those where not being able to setup perfectly for the V11 move makes that move significantly harder. I think “the equation” might hold truer if it was a couple V13 moves into a jug into the V11, if that’s even possible.
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Hey guys. Great to see ‘the equation’ getting some use after all these years. I devised it 10+ years ago with my buddy Kyle and at the time we struggled to understand how Cave Rave could get V14 when it was ‘just’ a V9 into a V11 so ‘the equation’ says it should have been V12. Well guess what, it seems it IS V12 (following all the debate on 8a after Ben’s repeat) and ‘the equation’ holds. Rock on! Pun intended.
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