This weekend saw some interesting news on the bouldering front with hard FAs by the likes of Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio and James Litz.
First up is the news about Daniel Woods completing the FA of Hypnotized Minds (V15) in RMNP, CO. Not situated in the far reaches of Upper Chaos Canyon like you might think, Hypnotized Minds sits right off the road to the Bear Lake parking lot on the rather popular Veritas boulder. In his report about Woods’ ascent Jamie Emerson describes the problem like this:
A few intro moves (which are certainly not easy) lead to a big lockoff to a terribly thin left hand pinch. The first hard move is off this pinch to a sloping gaston.
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The next move, which is perhaps the crux, is a huge lock-off to an edge. This is followed by a committing jump to the lip.
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The Veritas boulder showing Veritas with Daniel Woods’ new line venturing off somewhere to the right
Hypnotized Minds is the 3rd proposed V15 (or harder) Woods has established in Colorado since 2010 began. Back in February he did the FA of The Game (V16) in Boulder Canyon and this summer he did Warrior Up (V15) at Lincoln Lake with only the latter seeing a repeat (by Dave Graham).
The second piece of news is that Alex Puccio continued her fine form over in Switzerland by doing the FA of Polly Pocket Sit (V12) in Valle Bavon. While the problem is hard it apparently isn’t all that fun with Puccio commenting on her 8a scorecard “Paul [Robinson]…. Why did we do this.”
And finally, in addition to reporting the above news about Daniel Woods B3Bouldering reports that James Litz did the FA of The Insurgency in Joe’s Valley, UT. The Insurgency adds a difficult sit start to The Skeleton Key (V11) to yield a potential V14 and perhaps the hardest boulder in all of Joe’s Valley. Litz also did a few notable hard boulders in Colorado over the summer which you can read about in Jamie’s post linked above.
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The line starts at the bottom of the offset, makes a huge move out right to a crimp then heads basically right and up, just left of the black streak. Daniel texted me he got video, so I assume we will see that soon. I think this one will hold the grade.
Man, at this rate Paul and Daniel are going to go make V15 look unimpressive (at least for them). I also noticed that Daniel downgraded Jade to 8B+ on his own 8a card, so is the implication that his recent V15 FA’s both definitely a step up from Jade?
Well, Jamie reported that Daniel told him HM was the 2nd hardest in the state (presumably after The Game) so when combined with the downrate of Jade on his scorecard its safe to assume he thinks HM is a step up.