News & Notes – 9/8/2010

News & Notes – 9/8/2010


  • reports (in French) that Adam Ondra made a trip to Céüse, France over the weekend where he cleaned up two open projects bolted by Sylvain Millet.  One goes at 5.15a while the other goes at 5.14d.
  • DPM has a writeup about Brent Perkins sending the classic New River Gorge testpiece Proper Soul (5.14a) using only natural gear.  A bit contrived perhaps, but an interesting exercise nonetheless.  Proper Soul was also repeated in the more traditional bolt clipping manner earlier this summer by Red River Gorge legend Porter Jarrard.
  • Blogging about his trip down under in Australia, Phil Schaal reports that he repeated, among many other problems,  Catalyst (V14) at Sydney’s Crumbly.
  • reports that 15 year-old Geoffray De Flaugergues did his second 5.14d, Shortcut at La Balme, France.
  • reports that Peter Croft and Matt Ciancio teamed up to climb the 1,200 ft. Incredible Hulk 4 times in a single day back in late July.  Located in the northern Sierra Nevada, the Incredible Hulk tops out at over 11,000 feet.
  • Speaking of the Incredible Hulk, Lisa Rands put together a nice writeup about her trip up the Hulk with Peter Croft for The North Face’s blog.  You can see their trip featured in the upcoming 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour.

And Notes…


Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing
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5 Responses to News & Notes – 9/8/2010

  1. Luke September 8, 2010 at 2:01 pm #

    AND while Leo Houlding just turned 30 he is still a badass:

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    • Narc September 8, 2010 at 2:22 pm #

      I meant to read that interview before I posted this but I’m really slipping in my old age…

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  2. Sanchez September 10, 2010 at 1:43 pm #

    Re: “Black Diamond warns against the use of daisy chains when cleaning sport anchors”

    I believe the link is saying that you should not use your daisy chain as a belay anchor.

    I think the usage of a daisy chain for cleaning an anchor is alright since you will not be shock-loading it and the rope is still in the system.

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    • Narc September 10, 2010 at 1:52 pm #

      They close the article with these lines about using a daisy chain for sport anchors: “Don’t know how to thread sport anchors without clipping in with a daisy chain? Then go get some instruction from a professional guide IMMEDIATELY before you get yourself hurt.”

      As others pointed out in the comments over on BD’s site, a) most of BD’s daisy chain sales can’t possibly be for aid climbing so b) it would have been nice for them to point people in the right direction as to how to clean a sport route since I doubt everyone is going to run out and get professional instruction.

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