Alli Rainey checks in with the Prana Blog to report of her recent success in Ten Sleep, WY:
I don’t know if I’ve ever crushed a really hard project for me with such authority and confidence ever before, but I can almost get teary about it—because that was the point in returning to this bottom sequence yet again. At long last, I can lay this baby to rest, knowing that I DID dominate this move, these moves, these sequences that continued to play with my mind and my being for years now.
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I know I will never climb these moves again in my life (no more possible link-ups off of this), and it’s a relief, for sure, but I also know that if I had to do it again, I could, on command, instead of waiting for the magical 1 in 50 chance (that’s what it seemed like before, anyhow) of snagging the move on a lucky go. And that’s what I wanted. It had gotten way personal, and now, it’s over, and I can move on knowing that I own that sequence and it doesn’t own me.
The project she refers to is a linkup at Ten Sleep’s stunning Sector D’or et Bleu called Private Halfenheimer (5.14a, FA James Litz). PH links up Sky Pilot (5.13d) and General Litzenheimer (5.14c) , bypassing the latter route’s V12-ish start.
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Good for Alli! I had the pleasure of being her partner at the 2005 Roc trip in Squamish. She forgot her crash pad and we used mine during the bouldering comp. I then got to hang with here at the International Climbers fest in Lander, where I got a signed copy of her Bouldering USA guide. She is a great climber and excellent writer too.
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I’m so confused by the idea of conquering a hard move/sequence/route, then never wanting to return to it again.
Perhaps the stress level on certain routes becomes too much to bear, but isn’t the idea of conquering a hard route again and again until the strength or muscle memory is developed part of why we spend so much time with our projects? Not to leave them, but rather to embrace them as our own, reliving the enjoyment of unlocking the crux again and again?
Unless it sucks, of course… but then again, why project a crappy route?
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With some of these super-projects people do, maybe it’s because it would take another couple dozen tries to do it again and the climber would rather try something new than work really hard just to do something a second time.
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