4 years to the day after the first ascent by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl has repeated one of North America’s hardest sport routes, Dreamcatcher (5.14d). Attempted by many strong climbers like Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle and Paul Robinson, this Squamish testpiece had resisted all attempts until Sean put a few more days of work in on the line this year.
Coming off a strong summer of competitions in Europe, McColl feels like he is in the best shape of his life for climbing routes and it showed on Dreamcatcher when he dispatched the final moves, the ones that gave Sharma a hard time, on his first try reaching them on a redpoint burn:
I rested each hand a couple of times and started to get psyched up. Before I left the rest, I took a couple really deep breaths and decided it was time. I made the hard move around the corner with my right hand and quickly brought my left hand to the pinch on the corner. I lunged right to the crux hold and felt pretty good. I made room for my other hand to come in, then matched feet then did the move. My feet blew off as I was re adjusting my fingers on the hold but I still felt good. I pasted my left foot on the corner of the wall and threw into the next gaston. Two more moves and I was done… I moved my left foot to a higher smear in the crack, matched hands and threw for the final jug. I hit the jug and a stream of endorphins hit my body. I rested back and forth a bit then did the last 4 moves and clipped the chains. As I clipped the chains, I let out a victory cry that could be heard all around. I had done it, the second ascent of Dreamcatcher.
Here is the famous video of Sharma on the FA in Dosage IV: