2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl

2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl

4 years to the day after the first ascent by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl has repeated one of North America’s hardest sport routes, Dreamcatcher (5.14d).  Attempted by many strong climbers like Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle and Paul Robinson, this Squamish testpiece had resisted all attempts until Sean put a few more days of work in on the line this year.

Coming off a strong summer of competitions in Europe, McColl feels like he is in the best shape of his life for climbing routes and it showed on Dreamcatcher when he dispatched the final moves, the ones that gave Sharma a hard time, on his first try reaching them on a redpoint burn:

I rested each hand a couple of times and started to get psyched up.  Before I left the rest, I took a couple really deep breaths and decided it was time.  I made the hard move around the corner with my right hand and quickly brought my left hand to the pinch on the corner.  I lunged right to the crux hold and felt pretty good.  I made room for my other hand to come in, then matched feet then did the move.  My feet blew off as I was re adjusting my fingers on the hold but I still felt good.  I pasted my left foot on the corner of the wall and threw into the next gaston.  Two more moves and I was done… I moved my left foot to a higher smear in the crack, matched hands and threw for the final jug.  I hit the jug and a stream of endorphins hit my body.  I rested back and forth a bit then did the last 4 moves and clipped the chains.  As I clipped the chains, I let out a victory cry that could be heard all around.  I had done it, the second ascent of Dreamcatcher.

Read an excellent full report at Sean’s blog.

Here is the famous video of Sharma on the FA in Dosage IV:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs]

More Dreamcatcher pictures can be seen here (Sean McColl), here (Paul Robinson) and here (Ryan Olson)

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9 Responses to 2nd Ascent Of Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher (5.14d) By Sean McColl

  1. Adrian September 24, 2009 at 9:19 am #

    Congrats to sean for the hard work. I’m placing a bet that Matt Bosley will get the third ascent very soon, with Paul right behind him. Both those guys were very close this summer, just needed some better conditions to work with.

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    • Seth September 24, 2009 at 5:32 pm #

      Old man Bos will CRUSH!

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  2. Mark September 24, 2009 at 12:39 pm #

    I was really rooting for Paul, but good job to Sean.

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  3. Philly Cheese September 24, 2009 at 4:37 pm #

    Props to Sean. The guy is pretty solid after a good world cup campaign in which he distinguished himself as one of the top competitors in both lead and bouldering comps. Good to see a fellow canadian taking a sick line down.

    This achievement and the difficulty some of these strong climbers have faced in apptempting to repeat it simply reflects the vision Sharma had on the line in the first place. It could be that or the shitty weather.

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  4. Ben Salser September 24, 2009 at 9:15 pm #

    Boz is NEXT!!!

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  5. peter September 24, 2009 at 11:13 pm #

    Sharma tried it first in bad temps too and had to give up, coming back a couple months later. At least that was the story presented in Big Up. I say bad ass vision and excellent effort on the repeater(s, hopefully soon) part.

    cool fact about the date!

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  6. peter September 24, 2009 at 11:15 pm #

    Also, where’s the video of the ascent. No video = invalid fo sho.

    I’m going to go ahead and say this: I’m be sarcastic.

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  7. Narc September 25, 2009 at 8:00 am #

    It’s always cool to hear about guys like Bosley lurking under the radar

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Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Sean McColl: Dreamcatcher (9a) | Plezanje, alpinizem, turno smučanje in balvaniranje v Sloveniji; Slovenia climbing and bouldering site - October 1, 2009

    […] around. I had done it, the second ascent of Dreamcatcher." …več vir: PromoBlog; seanmccoll.com; climbingnarc.com; climbing.com; deadpointmag.com video DreamCatcher (9a); Chris […]

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