With the Spring season at Joe’s Valley in full effect lately, Joe’s best known hard problem has been receiving a fair amount of attention lately with Jamie Emerson working it and Matt Wilder sending. The problem is, of course, Black Lung (V13).
First climbed by the legendary Ben Moon during a roadtrip to the U.S. back in 2000, Black Lung is a sought after tick for anyone able to climb at that grade. What that grade actually is seems to be up for debate as a quick perusal of 8a.nu reveals a few people registering it as V12 as well as comments about new beta making it easier.
Regardless, as an observer Black Lung appears to be the perfect boulder. The problem is short, it climbs a nice looking piece of black rock and a successful ascent requires the perfect near perfect execution of a few very difficult moves. I say “near perfect” because of the video Matt Wilder posted of his recent send:
Of course, this entire post was just an excuse to post this classic video put together when Ben Moon did the original FA. So classic…