A Wisconsin Trifecta:  3 Areas, 3 Disciplines, 3 Classic Hard Lines

A Wisconsin Trifecta: 3 Areas, 3 Disciplines, 3 Classic Hard Lines

The news of Josh Wharton’s recent trifecta of 3 difficult bouldering, mixed and sport climbing challenges rekindled a hair brained idea I thought up last year.  For those that didn’t see it, Wharton redpointed an M10 mixed route, bouldered a V10 and redpointed a 5.13 sport route all within the span of a week.  This was a completely arbitrary and contrived challenge of course, but I think it is a cool accomplishment.

The idea I had been thinking about would be to try something similar here in WI.  Since I am not a very motivated person I will probably never try it, which means I can share it here without adding any pressure.  

The Plan

My thought was that it would be cool to try and climb something hard from 3 disciplines (trad, sport, bouldering) at 3 different locations all in the same day.  The proposed plan would be to start in Necedah and climb the fantastic sport route Whiskey A Go-Go (5.13-).  After that, I would head south to Devil’s Lake for the trad portion of the day.  I originally thought leading one of the 5.12’s would be the thing to do in order to keep things hard, but after giving it some thought I think leading a classic Pete Cleveland route like Son Of A Great Chimney (5.11) would be more appropriate (and still difficult).  After that, I would finish up the day by cruising down to Governor Dodge for a lap on Sandstone Violence (V8).  3  areas, 3 disciplines, 3 classic hard lines.

I’ve already completed 2 out of the 3 steps separately (sport and bouldering), and I have been meaning to give SOAGC a try ever since I took up trad climbing so perhaps this plan could provide the motivation.  Obviously this whole endeavor is a complete contrivance, but it could be a fun test of fitness and motivation at some point.  Any suggestions of substitutes or variations are greatly appreciated.

Son Of A Great Chimney


Whiskey A Go Go


Sandstone Violence

Top two pictures borrowed from Mountain Project.

Posted In: From The Narc


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7 Responses to A Wisconsin Trifecta: 3 Areas, 3 Disciplines, 3 Classic Hard Lines

  1. nicros January 27, 2009 at 3:33 pm #

    cave trav? hello! the best boulder in wi.

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    • Narc January 27, 2009 at 3:35 pm #

      Let’s be honest, Taylor’s barely qualifies as being in WI although I am more than happy to claim most of the GOOD problems are on the WI side…even though I don’t know what I’m talking about.

      For the purposes of a challenge such as this one it is really too far out of the way.

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  2. Rick Mix January 28, 2009 at 11:55 am #

    Wharton’s a weenie. Seriously, crying about the bolts on the Compressor route, then having pix of himself clipping prehung draws in the Black Canyon, and of course the pic of him with a drill in hand atop the Flame. At least all I’ve ever done is saw a crack down a wall! (obviously more ethical!)

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  3. Chris January 29, 2009 at 8:43 am #

    Cool. That’s a great shot of Gorny on Son of Great Chimney! 😉 FYI if you don’t know Kris G, you can email him through mountainproject– he is the type fo guy who will 1) remember blow by blow beta including pro and 2) be super psyched to help out. I’ve been on it on TR but my testicles were a touch small that day. We’ll see…

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  4. peter January 29, 2009 at 11:02 pm #

    i’d do that with you this season

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    • Narc January 30, 2009 at 6:19 am #

      Sweet. It might take until the fall before I am in proper form for this. We’ll see what the Spring season brings.

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  5. peter January 29, 2009 at 11:06 pm #

    AND I don’t think it’s arbitrary at all. I think it’s a cool measure of having power, power endurance and a head.

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