News & Notes 6/5/08

News & Notes 6/5/08

Good luck to the U.S. bouldering team this weekend!

On to the news and notes…

  • Dosage 5 premiered in Boulder, CO last night with much fanfare apparently.  Check out Newclimber for an early review.  He has a fair number of critiques, many of which sound pretty standard for the Dosage series.  You either like the style or you don’t. The critique on the over editing concerns me though as I’m not a fan of seeing problems all chopped up.  Be sure to check out my post from last week on the contents of Dosage 5 if you are wondering what you will be able to see when the video comes to the masses.
  • Peter Beal has written another great article for  The topic is how we think about the difficulty of what we climb and how that affects performance.  A must read. Look for another article by Peter here in the near future.
  • A lot of good videos floating around right now:
    • Wade David has another high res video, this time it is Giovanni Traversi flashing Fingerhut (V10) in Joe’s Valley, UT.  It would be great if MVM adopted a resolution closer to what Wade is using.
    • has video of Hayden Miller climbing Eric’s Sister (V10) outside of Cotopaxi, CO
    • Climbing also has video of Steve McClure showing the moves on his new proposed 5.15a route at Kilnsey in Yorkshire, U.K.
    • MVM has some footage from Jamie Emerson’s trip to Switzerland and it starts off with Jamie climbing Riverbed (V13) and Daniel Woods climbing Collateral (V12).  The lockoff on Collateral is sick.
    • MVM also has a cool video of Chuck Fryberger climbing two new problems in Newlin Creek, CO
  • The World Cup Bouldering event starts tomorrow in Vail, CO.  According to V16 boulderer Chris Webb-Parsons the routesetting at the World Cup held last weekend in Grindelwald, Switzerland was “shit”.  Let’s hope we can do better.
  • For those that frequent the Sanctuary at the Red River Gorge, a direct start to the hyperclassic 5.12d Jesus Wept has been done.  It climbs straight up the arete instead of climbing in from the left and is another 5.12d apparently.  I notice that neighboring route Triple Sec has been officially downgraded to 5.12d in the online guidebook.
  • Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance are teaming up on a new project called Return to the Outdoors.  Here is a video they made with Steph Davis where she talks about reconnecting with our natural world…and she BASE jumps from the top of the Tombstone in Moab, UT.


Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Videos
Tags: ,
Climbers: , , , , , , , ,
Areas: , , , ,


Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

4 Responses to News & Notes 6/5/08

  1. tissuetendons June 6, 2008 at 9:54 am #

    data snippet: the Sanctuary (along with the rest of Muir Valley) is currently closed due to people driving with much rapidity on the little roads connecting the park with the world. the area will not be open again until the road can be made safer (i.e. wider and with no blind spots). tis a “bummer”.

    GD Star Rating
  2. The Narc June 6, 2008 at 10:05 am #

    Interesting. I always thought the road would get more sketchy with more traffic, but what road down there wouldn’t.

    GD Star Rating
  3. wade David June 29, 2008 at 12:13 am #

    Mr. Narc
    My videos are higher res because I make them 640 pixals wide. I do plan to buy a Red Camera early 2009. The resolution of the Red camera is 3500×1750 ( ultra hi-def ), normal HD is 1440×1080. Thus better color and sharpness with the Red camera.

    GD Star Rating
  4. Narc June 30, 2008 at 6:11 am #


    GD Star Rating

Leave a Reply