News & Notes – 5/8/2008

News & Notes – 5/8/2008

Not much Earth shattering news going down lately but here are a few things to check out from the past few weeks:

  • Joe Kinder prepared nicely for his 2 month trip to Spain with his recent FA of Golden Direct (5.14d) at the Cathedral in Utah.  You can read more about it here, here and here.  Look for footage soon on MVM. This may come as a surprise, but I have to admit that I am starting to “get” Joe Kinder.  For a long time his over the top persona and mangling of the English language had turned me off, but I am starting to come around.  I have a hard time not appreciating his enthusiasm for any and all things climbing.  Joe is in Spain right now with Chris Sharma so it should be interesting to see what is going down over there.
  • Carlo Traversi made an early season visit to Mt. Evans this past weekend to find conditions at the Dali Boulder surprisingly good.  He managed to send No More Greener Grasses (V12) and Super Gui (V11, pictured below) before succumbing to altitude on the hike out.

Photo:  Greg Mionske

    • Ty Landman was in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT recently and he did what he usually does when he visits a new area:  namely fast repeats of hard problems.  Highlights include a flash of the classic V11 Bully and a fast 4th ascent of Ben Moon’s Eclipse (V12 or 13).  You can read his full report at Moonclimbing.
    • Matt Segal has been making a lot of headlines lately.  First was his repeat of Musta Been High (5.13c R) in Eldorado Springs Canyon, CO during which he eschewed the use of knee pads deeming them “poorer style”.  He followed that effort up with a second free ascent of an extension to China Doll in Boulder Canyon that he gave a grade of 5.13d R, and in doing so raised the specter of chopping the bolts off the previously thought-to-be-unsafe-to-lead-on-natural-gear bolted crack.  Peter Beal is not impressed.
    • Dougald MacDonald is reporting that Dean Potter has completed his BASEline walk in Moab that stirred up some mixed feelings back in March.
    • Planetmountain has a nice interview posted with Adam Ondra (15 year old 5.15 climber)
    • Jason Pinto has posted a few more photos from Switzerland and France including a few of Daniel Woods on The Dagger (V14) which Dave Graham added a sit start to in order to create Story Of 2 Worlds (V15).

Daniel Woods – The Dagger (V14)

Photo:  Jason Pinto


Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing
Climbers: , , , , , , ,
Areas: , , , , ,


Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

5 Responses to News & Notes – 5/8/2008

  1. JPWill May 5, 2008 at 11:17 pm #

    Hey Narc,Have you got any rad photos of No More Greener Grass? I’m looking for some inspiration.JW

    GD Star Rating
  2. Piledriver May 6, 2008 at 12:20 am #

    Nice news blub. Isn’t it true that DW did the story of two worlds as well? That interview with Tim is absolutely calssic!

    GD Star Rating
  3. The Narc May 6, 2008 at 6:41 am #

    JP – There should be some at Ryan Olson’s site or if you search on B3Bouldering I know Jamie has a few pictures from when he tried it.

    PD – I don’t believe so.  I think he has been climbing more in Magic Wood lately.  Last I read though he said he was close to finishing up SOTW.  Probably just a matter of climbing more/conditions in Cresciano.

    GD Star Rating
  4. Kate T-C May 14, 2008 at 11:56 am #

    Heh, when you wrote “… before succumbing to altitude on the hike out,” it sounds like the poor guy died of HACE or HAPE on his way home.  Your wording is almost the same as the euphemism in all those Alpine rags.  

    GD Star Rating
  5. The Narc May 14, 2008 at 12:02 pm #

    I often times feel as though I am suffering from AMS or HACE when compiling these posts…

    GD Star Rating

Leave a Reply