Joe Kinder is reporting on his blog that Kevin Jorgeson has made the 2nd ropeless ascent of Dave Graham’s The Fly (5.14d, V13/14?) in Rumney, NH. The first ropeless ascent was by Jason Kehl back in 2003. It sounds like video cameras were rolling for Kevin’s ascent so I guess we can look forward to seeing that somewhere in the future.
I think most everybody is familiar with The Fly in that the route is both extremely short (under 25 feet tall) and extremely difficult. Despite its short height it was bolted because the landing is anything but ideal. Along with Jorgeson and Kehl, The Fly has been repeated by Luke Parady, Chris Sharma and Tony Lamiche. Kevin’s is the first repeat in almost 5 years. Read Kevin’s thoughts under the Journal section of his personal website.
Paul Robinson is also in Rumney for an EMS shoot, so if the weather holds out he should have a pretty good chance of repeating it as well. When I asked him, he wasn’t sure if he would boulder it or use a rope, but judging by the extended forecast he will be lucky to even try either option. He did observe that he would be skipping all other 5.14 grades and going straight to 5.14d which would be a pretty cool and unusual feat. Good luck Paul!
Here is some footage of Tony Lamiche climbing it with a rope to give you an idea of what the route looks like
Also, local hardman Craig B has been on the ladder pictured and reports that “the holds are bad, but not that bad, just like 25 feet apart”…
Update: Paul repeated The Fly in one day of effort in sub-optimal conditions. Due to the conditions and lack of pads he climbed it with a rope. Nice work!
Update 2: Check Tim Kemples blogsite for video of Kevin’s pitching off the top half of the route
Kevin Jorgeson bouldering on The Fly
Photo: Tim Kemple