Anatomy of a V13 Flash

Consider with me for a moment what it takes (beyond being freakishly strong) to flash a V13 boulder problem. Patience is no doubt important as one must wait weeks or even years before the right combination of skill and conditions come together in a singular moment. One must also be extremely dedicated to getting fit and finding a problem that suits one’s skills perfectly. This is all well and good, but observe the below photographic evidence that I submit to you for review. What pattern do you notice in these sequences of successful V13 flashes (perhaps the only ones in history)??

Paul Robinson flashing Nagual (V13)
Photo: Ryan Olson
Paul Robinson Flashing Nagual V13

James Pearson Flashing Great Shark Hunt (V13)
Photo: Simon Richardson/DarkPeakImages
James Pearson flashing The Great Shark Hunt

James Pearson flashing Ganymede Takeover
Photo: http://www.freakclimbing.com/
James Pearson flashing Ganymede Takeover

And now a negative example – Paul Robinson NOT sending Free Range (V13)
Screenshot from MomentumVM footage of the crew at Boulder Canyon
Paul Robinson on Free Range in Boulder Canyon

The key to flashing V13

DUH!

Memo to decision makers at Five Ten: What are you doing discontinuing your most popular and successful bouldering shoe; one that cannot possibly be duplicated or refined in a new shoe with a more hip name!?! Please absorb this body of evidence along with the recent V15 sending exploits of P-Rob (undoubtedly wearing the V10s) and reconsider your foolish decision.

Posted In: Bouldering, From The Narc, Off the Board
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20 Responses to Anatomy of a V13 Flash

  1. well played. i’m proud of you, little kipper!

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  2. save the v10 January 2, 2008 at 1:49 pm #

    nice!

    Not sure what happened with your post on the topic but there is an online petition to save the v10
    http://www.thepetitionsite.com/petition/687361050

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  3. peter January 2, 2008 at 8:37 pm #

    until i saw the third pic i thought you were making a point about reaching up with your right hand to crimps…

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  4. Kevlar January 2, 2008 at 9:58 pm #

    Nice Point. I have never owned a pair of v10’s, but however they should be saved for there amazing qualities from what i have heard. For one or more reasons. I got my hands on a pair of the new Jet sevens, and I am highly disappointed in their performance. I do not believe this shoe should kick the v10 out of the 5.10 line.

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  5. Tony January 2, 2008 at 10:20 pm #

    I like how in each picture the v10 is a little bit clearer. In the first its kind of hard to see, in the second its not super obvious, but in the third its pretty clear.

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  6. Climbing Narcissist January 3, 2008 at 10:31 am #

    It would be interesting to hear the reason that Five Ten has decided to not continue the V10 out of all the shoes they make…surely there are many other models that are fit for extinction.

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  7. it’s all a test to determine the loyalty of team 5.10. anyone who bails because of this will be executed and all that stay the course will be rewarded with candy.

    i’m certain that sportiva is doing this with the mantra s and other models. I WILL STAY TRUE NOW, SPORTIVA… I WANTS MY CANDY!!!!!!!!!!111111

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  8. Tony January 3, 2008 at 10:22 pm #

    I wore an old blownout pair of the mantra, and it was still the best slipper I’ve worn. No yellow problem could stop me that night. I wish I had been a good enough climber before they stopped making them to take advantage of them.

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  9. fancyketchup January 8, 2008 at 6:15 pm #

    a twist in the plot: both DG’s near flash of Slashface and Sharma’s near flash of Nagual were made wearing Dragons. At least five.ten isn’t getting rid of those…yet

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  10. Climbing Narcissist January 9, 2008 at 6:16 am #

    Key word is “near” 🙂

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  11. tim January 13, 2008 at 3:14 pm #

    wouldnt be the first time 5.10 tried to discontinue a popular brand.

    5.10 tried to discontinue the anasazi velcro at one point, and the european climbing community raised such a hullaboo that they hastily brought it back and it’s still around.

    i also find it ironic that the shoes which were supposed to “replace” the anasazis… the Southwest – is no longer made.

    5.10 just hasnt learned that they shouldn’t fuck with the classic shoes.

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  12. Climbing Narcissist January 14, 2008 at 6:36 am #

    Yeah, they did the same with the pink lace-ups and tried replacing them with the Mesa’s about 6 years ago. Now the Mesa’s are being phased out and the lace-ups (still around) just got redesigned (or just got a new color it seems)

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  13. fancyketchup January 16, 2008 at 10:09 pm #

    When i discovered the v10s were going out of production I made one final order for a pair of Dragons and two pairs of v10s. This was a month ago. I got a box in the mail today. In it was a single pair of Dragons and a note on the invoice that said “v10 not available.” It is the end of an era my friends. The end of an era.

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  14. Climbing Narcissist January 17, 2008 at 6:26 am #

    Bummer. I assume that this was through Five Ten itself that you tried ordering?

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  15. fancyketchup January 18, 2008 at 12:28 pm #

    Indeed it was.

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  16. l0k1 September 11, 2008 at 3:18 pm #

    i *knew* i should’ve snagged a pair last time i was at the 5.10 outlet. damn.

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  17. Narc September 11, 2008 at 3:21 pm #

    Who knows, maybe someday (soon please) they will bring them back.

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  18. nickehm December 16, 2012 at 3:13 am #

    dont see any v10’s here http://climbingnarc.com/videos/nacho-sanchez-flashing-v13-in-targasonne/
    Just sayin.

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    • Narc December 16, 2012 at 6:58 am #

      This post is from 2008. 2/3rds of the problems referenced as being flashed aren’t even V13 anymore.

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Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Vacation is over, back to work! « Dream In Vertical - July 17, 2008

    […] US climbers have been tearing it up. As reported by Climbing Narc and many others Paul Robinson flashed Nagual, V13 and did the 2nd Ascent of Terremer V15. Additionally Dave Graham has been on a sending spree […]

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