News & Notes! 10/8/2007

News & Notes! 10/8/2007

I’ve spent way too much time spraying about myself lately and not nearly enough time spraying about the accomplishments of others. Here is my attempt to make up for this fact:

  • Andre DeFelice has had a good summer of progression up the bouldering grades. Last week he repeated Circadian Rhythm (V13) at Poudre Canyon, CO for his first V13. Nice work!
  • The final episode of Issue 7 of the Momentum Video Magazine has been posted. Featured is Lauren Lee climbing a 5.13a at Rodellar, Spain.
  • Since my last update on Dave Graham he has climbed Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13), and he made a 2nd go repeat of Clear Blue Skies which was graded V13 at first but has now settled at V12 it would appear. It looks like has also already made his way to the RRG for this weekend’s Roctrip. He flashed Kaleidoscope(5.13c) and onsighted Dirty Smelly Hippie (5.13b), Elephant Man (5.13b) and The Force (5.13a). Apparently he is not down with the heat wave that blanketed the eastern side of the country this past weekend.
  • The Huber brothers have upped the ante for El Cap speed climbing…barely. Previous record holders Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine climbed The Nose in 2 hours 48 minutes 50 seconds in 2002. Despite losing time due to equipment issues like Thomas dropping an aider during the Great Roof pitch, the Hubers managed to top out in 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds to just barely beat the previous record! You can read a blow by blow account by someone watching from the valley floor over at SuperTopo. Of course they are planning to return to the sweet stone this week to improve on their time even more.
  • Rob Pizem recently opened a new testpiece at Mt. Evans, CO. No, not another double digit boulder problem but rather a 3 pitch 5.13c/d route around 12,000′ above sea level. Below is a topo Rob created that also outlines an unfinished direct line for the crux pitch that goes at around V12. Perhaps the next testpiece for the strong boulderer???

Click to see the full topo...

  • Speaking of strong boulderers…It’s always a good feeling when you can go to a specific wall or boulder outside and climb all the routes or problems there. At the end of September, Paul Robinson took this idea to a ridiculous level at the Dali Boulder at Mt. Evans, CO. Here is his 3 hour circuit:
    • Warmup Crack – (V3) – check
    • No More Greener Grasses (V12) – check
    • Clear Blue Skies (V12) – check
    • Mental Masturbation (V12) – check
    • Ode to the Modern Man (V14) – check
    • Super Gui (V11) – check
    • Dali SDS (V9) – check
    • Pat’s Arete Low (V8) – check
  • Jamie Emerson has been putting in a lot of effort this fall on Dave Graham’s Automator (V13) in RMNP. We often only see the end result of a climber topping out their project, here is what it looks like the other 95% of the time when they have to work things out: [youtube=]
  • Again, check out the ABS9 comp photos. This was my first experience with my new 50mm f1.8 lens. I probably overused it a bit but that is just part of the learning process I guess.
  • I am still trying to raise money for RRG Access. Since my initial announcement the response has been great and money has been raised at a much faster rate than in previous months. Thanks to everyone. Check out this post again for more information.
  • I am flying to New York on Wednesday for an Old Guys trip to the Gunks. May the weather gods have mercy on us…
  • Posted In: Bouldering, News, News & Notes, Videos
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    4 Responses to News & Notes! 10/8/2007

    1. Tony October 8, 2007 at 8:06 pm #

      B Dubster! Good News we are officially going down to the Roctrip with the Professor and his gang!

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    2. Climbing Narcissist October 9, 2007 at 5:43 am #

      I expect a full report

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    3. Sarah October 9, 2007 at 6:39 am #

      unfornuately, I don’t think I’ll be able to make it to team tonight. I have to finish all my homework in time to leave on Thursday. HAve fun in the Gunks!

      GD Star Rating


    1. Huber Brothers El Capitan Speed Record Video | Climbing Narcissist - April 29, 2008

      […] in October, the brothers Alex and Thomas Huber broke the record for speed climbing The Nose on El Capitan…twice. Their first effort only broke the previous record held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans […]

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