Bit of News

Here is a bit of news for your Wednesday:

  • Paul Robinson has made the 4th ascent of Ode to the Modern Man (V14) at Mt. Evans after Woods, Landman and Jorgenson. This would be Paul’s 25th problem V13 or harder in just the past 365 days.
  • As noted yesterday, Ethan Pringle has repeated Realization and he has entered on his spraysheet as 5.14d…
  • Harry Robertson added a new V12 to RMNP when he did Both Sides of the Spectrum at the Moraine Park area of RMNP. Someone must know something about this no?
  • Dave Graham repeated Existence Mundane (.14b/c) at the Canadian crag Acephale.
  • Bernhard Schwaiger has repeated Memento in Silvretta, Austria that has been given the astounding grade of V16. Frankly this is a bit hard to believe but you can check out pictures and video here.
  • really needs more bandwidth…

Thanks to Ryan Olson for the following enlightenment:

Bernhard did not do the FA of Memento, it is a Bernd Zangerl problem. The grade is still highly suspect.
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Here is a picture of Both Sides of the Spectrum which was known as the Karma project. Check out modump for more pictures.


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3 Responses to Bit of News

  1. Ryan September 5, 2007 at 3:34 pm #

    There are pictures of both side of the spectrum on Modump. Look for the “Karma Project”

    Memento is a problem that was put up by Bernd Zangerl. The video of Bernhard does not show him sticking the crux dyno… I’ve also heard that this problem is not close to 8C+…

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  2. greysheep5 September 12, 2007 at 4:00 am #

    so why is the grade of memento so highly doubtable, because it´s not located in the states or hasn´t seen an ascent from some super strong us-guy? 😉

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  3. Climbing Narcissist September 12, 2007 at 10:13 am #

    Not at all. It has more to do with the lack of consolidation and consensus about problems of the V14 and V15 range. It seems a bit premature to be giving problems ratings of V16.

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