Chris Sharma Does First Ascent Of First Round First Minute In Margalef

Chris Sharma Does First Ascent Of First Round First Minute In Margalef

After a prolonged, well documented and at times even controversial battle, Chris Sharma has done the first ascent of his First Round First Minute project in Margalef, Spain according this post on girlfriend Daila Ojeda’s blog. Sharma, who turns 30 on Saturday, had spent the past few years working on the short, bouldery route only to fall repeatedly on the last move leading some to speculate the route could be 5.15b.

With the climbing world rightly distracted by the amazing accomplishments of the young Czech phenom Adam Ondra, it’s nice to see Sharma out there holding it down for the “old” guys…

More details as they come, but until then here is a clip of Sharma trying FRFM from the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU&w=540]

Update: As usual these days PlanetMountain has the interview with Sharma discussing the send

Update #2: Rock & Ice has a nice write up by Andrew Bisharat who recently spent time with Sharma in Spain and has a few more words from Chris himself about how the day went. Apparently Sharma sent FRFM on a whim after trying a potential 5.15c project earlier in the day.

Update #3: More in this Prana blog entry written by Sharma himself

Posted In: News, Sport Climbing
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26 Responses to Chris Sharma Does First Ascent Of First Round First Minute In Margalef

  1. Jbrandt8 April 20, 2011 at 2:12 am #

    Yeah!!! Finally!!! So psyched for Sharma!

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  2. Zachary Kurey April 20, 2011 at 2:17 am #

    Who knows. He tried that thing so many times(way more probably than his other 15b’s). Maybe 15c? Be interesting to see if he’ll say anything about the grade after the send. Maybe it was just more of a mental war for him.

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  3. Joel April 20, 2011 at 2:42 am #

    next week’s headline:

    “adam ondra nabs second ascent of first round, first minute after four attempts, suggests hard 15b”

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    • Shawn J April 21, 2011 at 5:36 am #

      What a stupid thing to say.

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      • Joel April 21, 2011 at 6:40 pm #

        it was a joke, shawn.

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  4. Paully April 20, 2011 at 2:49 am #

    Yes!!! Been waiting for this all year!!!

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  5. Sarahisyellow April 20, 2011 at 2:51 am #

    was that rope on?

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  6. Chuck D. April 20, 2011 at 2:53 am #

    Was BigUp there to film the FA?

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    • Narc April 20, 2011 at 1:02 pm #

      Doesn’t sound like it

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  7. KCady April 20, 2011 at 3:43 am #

    Sick, so great to see.

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  8. joeyjoejoe April 20, 2011 at 4:10 am #

    Yeah!

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  9. Dand April 20, 2011 at 8:22 am #

    get chris’ lookalike (daniel woods ) on it !:)

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    • Eric April 20, 2011 at 1:20 pm #

      Thats right, get DW on it so he can give it 15d, then have it downgraded as usual. Then he would complain that prior ascentionists did different beta or brushed the holds until they “grew”

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      • ben April 20, 2011 at 1:27 pm #

        DW just downgraded Ill Trill…he’s not always the one getting downgraded

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        • Joaq April 20, 2011 at 5:45 pm #

          Fanboy fight!

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      • db April 26, 2011 at 7:45 am #

        really?

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  10. Paul C. April 20, 2011 at 1:44 pm #

    2011 is insane so far! Makes me want to train!

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  11. Paully April 20, 2011 at 3:13 pm #

    How does this sound? 15c if done in evolv shoes and 15b if done is fivetens or sportivas.

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  12. Carlos Lugo April 20, 2011 at 7:23 pm #

    Maybe it’s just me, but the fact that the project was closed to certain climbers sorta takes away from the “FA” really meaning anything significant…

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    • Toothbrush April 20, 2011 at 8:36 pm #

      He opened up the project to anyone a while ago. But I’d venture to guess a lot of climbers stayed away from it anyways out of respect?

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    • Jbrandt8 April 21, 2011 at 2:18 am #

      not to me. He had ever right to close it. He’s given so much to the community, if he wants to climb what he put the work into and paid for…he’s earned it!

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    • Jbrandt8 April 21, 2011 at 2:18 am #

      not to me. He had ever right to close it. He’s given so much to the community, if he wants to climb what he put the work into and paid for…he’s earned it!

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  13. jason April 20, 2011 at 7:47 pm #

    I hope Nalle goes back to try it. That way he can get shut-down and everyone will stop pretending like there was a chance that Nalle would go from repeating soft 8c+ as his hardest sport route to doing the FA of something that’s at least 9b, over Chris and his huge headstart working the route. I’m a huge Nalle fan but that whole thing was a joke and a dick move on his part. At least try an established 15 before you go jumping on a hard 15 that someone has put a lot of work into.

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  14. Narc April 20, 2011 at 9:16 pm #

    Let’s not get carried away rehashing the discussion from last year…

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  15. Timewilltell April 22, 2011 at 7:02 pm #

    bound to happen.

    I’m interested in how long it will take adam to send it. This is not to put down sharma’s accomplishment. I just want to see how strong this kid really is…If he send this thing in no time he really will be on his way to some amazing FA of his own

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