Last week I alluded to the fact that I recently came into possession of a pair of the new Limited Edition Team 5.
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10 shoes. Ever since Five Ten discontinued the V10 model (and two of Five Ten’s well known athletes openly petitioned for their return) I’ve been looking forward to the return of a V10-like shoe.
Given that the new Team shoe is pretty similar to the discontinued V10s, I thought it might be helpful to compare the two and see what differences there are between the them (at least superficially).
Other than the obvious blue color, the new shoes have a velcro and elastic closure system, less rubber on the heel and a series of holes and ridges in the rubber on the toe. The Team shoes also feature the Stealth Mystique rubber where the V10s had Stealth HF.
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Whether or not you can notice the difference is anyone’s guess. Take a look at the pictures:
[sspdc content=2274 link=lightbox format=post] [sspdc content=2275 link=lightbox format=post] [sspdc album=60 style=matrix]
If you are wondering how to size the shoes, they suggest you size them the same as your street shoe. For me this is the same as the old V10s as well as the Dragons. I had a hard time jamming my foot into the shoe at first, but persistent effort paid off and the shoes are breaking in nicely.
Once I’ve had a chance to do some real climbing in the shoes I’ll provide another update.
do you have wide or narrow feet? I have always loved 5.10 rubber but have always had a problem with their shoes because my feet are wide. any thoughts on the width of this shoe..
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I’m honestly not really sure how my feet rate on the wideness scale. My guess is that they are more so on the wide side though.
Generally my shoes don’t feel all that great out of the box, but after wearing them for a bit they break in pretty nicely to fit my foot.
The V10 and Team shoes specifically I think are hard to get on at first because the opening is not that wide. All my pairs have taken multiple efforts to get on the first time.
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im psyched to hear what you think narc!
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limited edition? how long will these things be out narc?
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My understanding is that there will be a limited release this Fall with a “regular” shoe being released next Spring.
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I can hardly see the difference! In my opinion V10’s are great though, hopefully these are even better.
Nice review, looking forward to the update.
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interestingly, i believe that there is full rubber coverage on the outside side of the heel, which is where most heel hooks occur… so the lack of rubber on the inside side of the heel shouldn’t be as damning. sportiva picked up on this as well in having more rubber coverage on the outside side of the heel on the speedster… nice to see that companies are thinking more about functional design and drifting away from heel piece symmetry.
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That is correct.
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I thought the new slitted toe hooking rubber felt really cool on the pair I fondled last weekend. Pretty sweet.
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Interesting to hear that someone with wide feet finds that 5.10’s are a bad fit. I feel similarly, but I have narrow feet. 5.10’s always have A LOT of dead space in the heels in my case.
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I never gave it much thought, but I’ve noticed a small amount of deadspace in the heels of several of my 5.10 shoes. For me it hasn’t really affected the performance of the shoes though which is why I probably have never really noticed it.
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I’m still a bit confused about the limited nature of these shoes.
I talked to a guy at the 5.10 booth at the pine mountain pulldown this past weekend.
He said they would have 510 pairs available until January 2010. I however failed to ask what happened at this point. Will they stop making them? Will we have to wait until later in 2010 to buy them…?
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I abhor five10 because their fit is horrible for me. I have wide feet AND there’s so much room between my heel and the heel of the shoe.
On another note, I’ve often wondered why they have the holes in just the rubber on the toes of shoes (my Evolv Predators have them). Why not go through the fabric as well?
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two theories:
1. the holes in the rubber are to make it slightly more pliable for the toe knuckles to project more… i.e. for more comfort.
2. the holes catch on crystals in the stone better for toe hooking.
my understanding is that the holes are not intended to be vents.
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The limited edition part is mostly just a way of hyping up the product for the initial launch (which has been very successful apparently). Once the initial run of 510 is gone, there will be a standard version of the shoe. I believe it will be mostly identical to the LE version. Word on the street is that the “regular” version of the shoe will drop late this year.
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But just think how much cooler you’ll look with that “le” on the side if you order now!!!
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Thank God they picked up on the outer rubber of the heel! The projects absolutely SUCK for heel hooking because of this! I still think I’m getting speedsters instead.
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I had the chance to fondle a pair of those last night, they look pretty cool. The nose of the shoe being all rounded and such was very odd to see. I’m interested in hearing more about how that works out in practice.
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just for transparency, lynn, the speedster does not have total coverage on the outside side of the heel, just raised coverage. i do feel that it helps. i’ve used mine on some very very intense heel hooks already and i have been very pleased. currently, the speedster is my go-to shoe for heel hooking! that’s very strange for me since i traditionally woudl only use something with laces. for me, the fit and design is just really good.
as far as the rounded toe, narc, it climbs like a pair of broken in shoes. it does not have that chisel edge for insane front pointing, but you can cheat your way through with strong toes and “smedging” technique.
i would not grab these shoes for a face climb at my limit, or where a razor sharp toe is necessary. for instance, in a very bad perch move on the marble, i had good luck with using my testarossas instead of the speedster because the speedster was a tad too blunt and the one millimeter difference helped get behind that perching foot hold.
i would suggest that the comments about five ten’s soft shoe hold true for the speedster, generally: a fantastic shoe for the quiver, but not the main workhorse shoe.
that said, i’ve worn mine for most of what i’ve tried in the last two weeks without hesitation.
one great benefit of the rounded toe is that it would be impossible to delaminate the sole from the rand, which seems to be a common gripe.
with no further ado, lynn, let the testing begin! …. or re-commence?
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why can’t a climbing shoe company adopt the earth shattering concept of…sizing their shoes the same across the board?
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because they are built on different (multiple) lasts. therefore universal sizing across lasts couldn’t be perfectly proportionate. therefore attemmting to tell the masses that shoes sizes are closer to being “the same across the board” will only lead to more confusion because in the end they are going to be different, yet now people are falsely comparing sizes to others. whereas if one sizes shoes independently from eachother they ensure a better fit- unbiased by faulty presupposition (i.e. this shoe should fit in a size 8.5 and does not)
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I disagree. I say that whatever measurements of the shoe determine “size” should just be thrown out. So, for a given last/shoe, take a person with a size 9 foot, and whichever size of the shoe fits that, call that a 9, even if the length of the sole is 317.2 mm, and technically that’s an 8, or what have you(numbers are made up.)
The thing is, if I could go to a nearby shoe store and try all these things on, I wouldn’t care what you call them size wise. I could be a “QJ-2” in five ten anasazi’s and a “venti” in solutions, and that’d be fine by me. Unfortunately, climbing shoe selection is usually sub-par, unless you’re in Bishop, Golden, or similar.
So, since most of us buying these fancy-schmancy shoes are stuck buying online, it would be a great favor to us if the shoes just got labelled according to what would fit most people with that American shoe size.
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@ sean
sounds like standardizing sizes for climbing shoes. conceptually works but doesn’t even really work with regular street shoes, clothes, or most things that are really subjective like the fit of a climbing shoe. a sizing consensus would only make purchasing shoes online easier if you already had previous experience with the brand(s). that’s the thing with fit, whether with shoes or clothes, it’s the subtleties of your body and how it feels to you that really mean anything.
so, the best thing shoe companies can do is keep their sizing consistent within brands. otherwise, the only thing you can do as a consumer is get as much info from whoever before purchasing the shoes and hope it works out. by the time you’ve gone through a couple shoes, you’ll have a better idea of what works anyways.
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I understand what you’re saying. What I get frustrated about is why can’t the same company size shoes identically. E.g. One pair of Miuras will fit differently than another pair of Miuras of the same size. WTF?
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I think your last gripe is just the result of the human factor in making certain products. You’ll find the same thing in jeans that are hand cut, i.e. one pair of 32×30 jeans fits different than another from the same brand.
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i think it would be great if the shoe companies gave you the length in millimeters of each size. wouldnt be that hard to add to the website and would save a TON of hassle for those not particularly loyal to a single brand/shoe.
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i think that micro variation in the same size in the same model is an unfortunate byproduct of the manufacturing process. even batches of beer taste slightly different, if you are highly in tune. as climbers, we wear very very tight shoes, therefore making us highly intune with these variations that may not be noticable in casual shoes.
as far as sizing, i started this blog post a while back and i’d encourage more folks to post to it. someday, if i get enough imput, i’ll try to make an actual gridwork for sizing…
http://straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com/2009/02/master-list-of-comparitave-climing-shoe.html
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Thanks to everyone for sharing your thoughts. I agree it would be nice if shoe sizing was more straightforward since it’s hard for most of us to find shoes to try on in person before buying. However, I think several of you have made good points about the difficulty of standardizing shoe sizes. Even within one brand, each model of shoe is designed to fit differently and perform a different function. There’s really no way for sizing to be exact between the two. Add in the fact that the sizing of shoes is such an individual thing when it comes to climbing shoes and it’s all the more difficult.
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oh my gOD!!! i want these shoes.
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Yes, yes you do. My initial impression after using them indoors and out a few times is that they are everything I was hoping for.
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pull tabs are too thin. not only does it make them difficult to get on but i’ve had mine for only a week and one of the tabs is starting to tear away from the shoe. maybe this will be less of an issue when the shoe gets broken in more, but right now it is quite aggravating. on a positive note, the rubber seems much more durable/resilient than hf.
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This is probably my greatest fear. My V10’s suffered a similar fate rendering them unusable.
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The project’s I had had the pull tab break the 4th time I tried to put the shoe on, I really hope these shoes were put together a little better.
Hah, btw, could you imagine John Gill posting on an internet blog about his shoes? How times have changed.
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so what are the advantages to this new microfiber upper? does it allow for better ventilation, comfort, or durability..??
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Well, just got my 2 pairs of Projects in the mail. My review (without any climbing), I think I’m done with 5.10.
My pitons are comfortable (read, could wear them for hours) at a size 10. My anasazi’s, worn in, are just right at size 11. Then I tried the projects. The advice on backcountry was, “these are so soft and comfortable, size down”, and “these are all leather and are going to stretch big time, size down from your anasazi’s”. Stupid me. I ordered a 10.5 and 11. The 11s I could JUST get my foot into, and after bouldering a few problems quickly realized no amount of breaking in would rectify the problem.
Returned those. Enter these “teams”. Everyone says the V10s were awesome, and these are basically new V10s. Ok, I’ll bite. Try again. This time I order an 11 (my anasazi size) and 11.5. 11s are quickly out, can’t get my feet in.
Now my favorite part. I manage to squeeze my foot in the 11.5, front of the foot very cramped, and low and behold…DEAD SPACE IN THE FREAKING HEAL. Just what I want for heel hooks in a bouldering/sport shoe. Sigh. Apparently I must have tiny girl heels compared to the rest of the population. Oh, and I couldn’t get my slightly larger left foot into the left shoe.
Anyway, 5.10’s sizes seem to mean less than a promise from a politician to me, and I’m done putting money on my credit card and returning shoes. The anasazi’s have been a great love affair, my pitons work nicely, but I think I have to break it off, I just don’t fit with the family.
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Idk what to say about these… They’re hard to size. So I got these shoes last week and sized them the same as my dragons and projects. They were definatly too small so I ordered a half size smaller. I just got them today and they still ended up being extremely small. I had to put crayola markers through the pull loops to help me pull them on! Once they were on they felt alright. I don’t wanna keep returning them so I’m hoping they’ll be ok. I think the biggest problem with these for me so far, is that they’re slip ons. This makes it hard to get on, and once you finally do, they arent as tight as you want them :/ Idk if anyone else is having this problem, but I just thought I’d give my oppinion. If that perfect fit isn’t so important to you, than I’d suggest a full size larger than the dragons and projects (the only two Five Ten shoes I’ve owned). Also, the projects streatch more since theyre leather, so if your projects fit super tight, remember these are synthetic so won’t streatch as much.
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Oops… “They were definatly too small so I ordered a half size smaller”… I ment to say LARGER.
Also, “Apparently I must have tiny girl heels compared to the rest of the population” like Sean, because I also have a good amount of dead space in the heal, which I didn’t experience with the dragond or projects.
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NARC, would you suggest this shoes for indoor climbing?
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If you are looking for an aggressive shoe for indoor bouldering or steeper indoor route climbing I think these are a fine choice. I’ve been using mine in the gym regularly of late and I really like how they are breaking in. They really give you the sense that you are able to pull with your feet which I like a lot.
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Im still struggling on how to size these things.
I ordered a pair of these online as my street shoe size, everything fits perfect,and its a high quality shoe, but they KILL the toes…
I guess what I am asking is how well do these shoes break in. Do they have some leeway? Im debating whether to stick with the pair I have and fight the pain or just size them up.
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When I first got mine I could barely get them on my foot and once I did they were very painful, especially on the little toes of each foot. After a couple of weeks I was able to wear them on and off for 3 hours at a comp the other night without much problem. I’d say that if you can get them on they will probably break in ok, but it’s obviously different for everyone.
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Heh, so the whole, “Pain is insane” in red on the top of the box is just for show eh?
But seriously, aren’t these specifically supposed to not stretch? (I think it no longer matters to me because they clearly don’t fit my foot shape)
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They aren’t going to stretch as much as an unlined shoe, but there is always going to be a little room for break-in.
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How would you size these in comparison to the old velcro dragons (which my love affair with must end soon as I have sewn more repair stitches on to the shoes than they came with stitches originally)? I have mocc’s in 6.5, sirens in 8 and dragon velcro’s in 8.5. Thanks for the advice 🙂
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I can’t speak directly to the sizing compared to the old dragons since I never had a pair but it sounds like the Team shoe sizes pretty similarly. My Mocs are a 9 and my Team shoes & Lace up dragons are 10.5.
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Thanks Narc, definitely time to go snatch up a pair.
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I have my mocs in a size 7 and just picked up the teams in a size 9, the size 9 teams are still about a half inch smaller in length from heal to toe than the mocs. Bar my mocs fit pretty tightly, the teams are Very tight, like others said, they are painful in the beginning and hard to get on, but I think they will break in well (bar this is the second day I’ve climbed in mine).
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talk bout a sizing curve on these babies I wear a 8.5- 9 in street shoes and a 9 in the projects but after bringing these babies back three times i finally got the right size… a 10..? this blew my mind as I sometimes ride 8.5’s also remember these shoes are lined so the break in or blow out is minimal. I do however love the toe. I was on the wall yesterday and just knew my right foot was coming off and my efforts were lost and before I knew it I was looking for the next foot hold.
I do think if you have to pay full price I would wait for the general release to drop and save yourself about 50 bucks of course you wont have the LE to brag about lol.
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Actually, that’s not the case.
I just got another pair of Team 5.10 (the old ones wore out), and behold: they have the “le” designation where the old ones don’t.
AND they were cheaper. And free shipping. And came with chalk. Weird…
http://tinypic.com/r/1hc6mo/4
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