Joe’s Valley Trip Beta Needed

go to hueco! it is the same distance….

if you go to joes’s I will meet ya’ll der.

Lizzy and I will be out at Joe’s from the 22nd to the 26th of April with some of my friends from Bucknell. It will also be our first trip. Thanks for soliciting info from the community! The bouldering looks pretty sweet!! Perhaps we will see you there.

narc, note that while it may be noisy at the reservoir camping joint, as situner indicated, all of the free camping spots will be noisy starting at 7am if i happen to be there with my doggers when you are there. in april, that will be a possibility. i have no qualms about waking up sleeping hippies and free loading climber pukes. you all only exist to provide me with beta and pads. i’ll slap a fool who disagrees with this destiny.

wills a fire and maxipad will both suit your lurpiness well and are ultra proud ticks. they make anything else suggested for you total lowball contrived lame crap by comparison.

the black guide tends to get the nod more than other guides, though the red guide is best for moab, i believe. note that moab is probably about 3+ hours from joes valley… 6+hr round trip “rest day” drive doesn’t seem too great… if you do this, just do not plan on returning to joe’s.

note that if for some reason it is hella cold and snowy at joe’s when you go, the free camping at triassic is usually 15 degrees warmer, more sheltered from the wind, and the problems are a better bet for dryness, though the top outs are total rubbish sandy choss…. it’s a shame since the shapes and blocks at triassic… plus concentration… is so much better than joes… the choss factor kills it and joe’s takes the cake.

for many years i have defaulted to joe’s rather than hueco. i have some regrets about this and i feel justified in other respects. in any event, it is a fantastic area that deserves a visit.

that said, you better be going there for the purpose of working out beta for me and carrying pads for me. otherwise, i slaps a bish.

for a steep line, “water painting” is one of the best at joe’s… zero approach. it’s only detracting point is that it’s fairly low.

Hey Duder,

Don’t get scared off The Wind Below. V8 version is contrived, and skips a semi-hidden second-knuckle deep positive mono that makes it V5. I saw it onsited, flashed 5 times in a row by different individuals before I got on it, and I did it my second go (after flailing the first move), and I’m a puss.

No lie, it’d be criminal not to get on it. It can be tricky to find. For the powerline boulder, park at the same large lot as you would for the Wills-A-Fire area up the left fork (you’ll see the ridiculously huge pine tree). Head back down canyon (away from the resevoir) about 100 meters on foot, and then head straight up the steep rocky hillside. A trail is not obvious but is present. You’ll eventually see a very thin powerline running just over the boulders, and if you do see the trail, it will take you to the base of this massive boulder. It is approx 5 minutes up the hill from the road, if that. Don’t hit the powerline while topping out or you take a huge whipper, sans rope.

I would highly recommend the Black Guide book, although Neil speaks the truth about directions being better in the White book.

That said, excellent lines include:

-Wills-A-Fire (flashable V6)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1AC8NGosE5g/SE2irPoheBI/AAAAAAAAASY/nqfUs9W4Fws/s1600-h/DSC_9262.JPG

-Frosted Flakes (very hard V4)
-Maxipad (V6)
-Kelly’s Arete (flashable V5)
-Scary Monsters (amongst the best of V6s)
-Planet of the Apes (fun V6)
-Resident Evil (V8)
-Golden Plates (hardddd V7)
-Michaelangelo (high V3)
-The Buoux Problem (hard V3)
-Caveman Traverse (V4)
-They Call Him Jordan (broken and harder, V8ish?)
-Beyond Life (the most amazing looking V10)
-Save Yourself (mislabeled in the black book, center line on the Eden block in the Garden of Eden and to the right of Anatomy Act, the arete on the left… there’s a left exit (easier, V7ish) and a right exit (harder, V9ish?))
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1AC8NGosE5g/SE2isbJszII/AAAAAAAAASo/Ydz-P59Ocuo/s1600-h/DSC_9409.JPG

-Killed By Numbers (V5, see one of the Dr. Topo youtube videos), across the road from the Mine Cart in the cave/boulder
-The Wind Below (V5, mislabeled as “The Man From the Past” on youtube.com)
-Team Effort (either stand or sit)

BTW, there is a “video guide” that I haven’t seen by Nathan Cando. Here’s a clip on youtube.com:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcLtrAprClw

Rest day activities include drinking cheap 3.2% beer from the Food Ranch (the gas station in Orangeville; they have killer chicken tenders, trust me here), and the wave pool in Price. 100% worth the 45 minute drive and $2 entrance fee.

Lastly, consider driving across the San Rafael Swell, which is the long dirt road that cuts out the large zig zag on the freeway, and will save you 30-45 minutes of driving, if you have a reliable car. It is one of the most beautiful drives in Utah. I can give you beta over the phone.

Jonathan