Tony sent along this video of Dave Graham on the FA of Speed Of Life at Farley, MA. It’s a rad looking problem, but that’s not why he thought it was worth watching.
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See if you can notice anything strange taking place…
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9osgX_OpQTQ]
Posted In: Bouldering, Videos
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Dont think I’ve ever seen the shirt grabbing spot before…..
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a few weeks ago i considered using two dog leashes to allow my spotter to safely pull me from a pit of doom landing if i should have fallen. DAB or “leading” a boulder problem???
it seems like a eastern thing to spot so damn closely or with “no weight” but hands touching back, etc. also, doods do this w/ their girlfriends. in any event, it frustrates me and is why i prefer to carry a million pads and have loose spots and hockey-check instructions rather than “watch me close, dood”
whatever. i’m just glad to have this video on youtube since this line has been very near #1 on my all time want want want list. in my mind, it certainly takes precedence over midnight lightning.
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More info here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=378099
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DAB!!!! Real men spot with their hands in their pockets.
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Aggressive spotting for sure, maybe the video is an edit from multiple tries and he came down after each shirt pull. Dave doesn’t seem like the type of guy that would claim a send if it wasn’t legitimate.
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sockhands i think this problem is highly glued/manufactured
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i know you love to torment me, but is this true? i’m less against glue as i am against the manufactured part.
be real. confirm or enter the ‘gotcha’ NOW
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nope maybe phill schall could confirm? but i have heard from several people that it is very glued, possibly holds glued on. no joke.
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Just out at Farley earlier this week. I’ve spent some time looking at the line. Absolutely not manufactured and I don’t believe any glue has been used at all. One of the upper holds broke and peoples are calling it v10 (I think K-Jorg sent after break).
Scary landing. Got back to Wisco for the weekend…anyone gonna be at the A-rock comp?
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So, this discussion made me pretty curious and I called someone who should know. Glue was used on two crimps in order to reinforce the holds (they never actually broke off). Word is this happened sometime after the line was originally sent.
Why do I even care about this?
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That sounds like a good slogan for this site: “Why do I even care about this?” I may just have to steal that.
See you at the comp this weekend.
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this is at farley, mass btw
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I got some bad location info off another site. I’ll fix it.
Have you done this problem Paul??
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Dude, who cares about the nature of the spot that Dave Graham got on some v8 when he was like 18?
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I had a hard time sleeping last night it was bothering me so much…
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no i have not… i have looked at it and have only been to farley one day total. i unfortunately only had 1 pad and was way too scared to try it. the landing is absolutely heinous! i can see why dave got that type of “spot”
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**it seems like a eastern thing to spot so damn closely or with “no weight” but hands touching back, etc. also, doods do this w/ their girlfriends. in any event, it frustrates me and is why i prefer to carry a million pads and have loose spots and hockey-check instructions rather than “watch me close, dood” **
Interesting. I actually think the best close spot I’ve ever seen/experienced was a West Coaster in Squamish.
I doubt close spotting is truly a regional thing, but wouldn’t be surprised if certain crews tended to spot closer than others.
Oh, and I agree that in an ideal world, tons of pad and hockey-check-to-avoid-missing-pads is my preference. I just don’t usually have enough pads.
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my buddy and i noticed this a couple years ago (video is oldish) and were both pointing at the screen saying DAB!!! lol
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C’mon people, this isn’t Nam, there are rules. Any physical contact besides a climber and a rock is a DAB. Even the faintest assist on the shirt could have helped the climber send, especially with tiny crimps. If the landing is “heinous” well, the climber better get ready to take a digger, because this ain’t bowling, it’s rock climbing.
Dabby, dab, dab-a-roo!
Regarding this particular climb, with this particular climber I really couldn’t care less but this is a slippery slope.
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first this problem is most certainly v10. no one has ever called it v8 and while im not positive it hasnt been glued i have looked at all the holds hundreds of times and would say that it is not. while not justifying the obvious spotter dab this problem has a very bad and dangerous landing and you need to be pushed away from the boulder.
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I just guessed at the rating. I’d assume that v8 and v10 feel quite similar to Mr. Graham…
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I believe I referenced the problem being V8. Apparently done in error so I just removed it from the post. Not really important to the discussion.
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i thought the video this footage came from [uncommon ground] specifically calls it v9. i recall taking that mental note when logging it in my lifetime must-do registry. grades are like fly poles: anyone can go up or down a line-weight from the number posted without much issue.
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