Governor Dodge Bouldering Video

some of that stuff looks actually quite illgnar nice… not at all bad! fritter power and good sandstone… you bitches have been holding out!

I wonder if alex did sandstone violence while he was there recently.

I think this is a good area… but not great. Sandstone Violence is the best line I looked at and for all the rock at G.D. only a few lines are worth going to.

In my opinion the “best” Bouldering areas in the Midwest (MN,WI,ND,SD,IA,NE)

1-Mt.Baldy “black hills” (SD)
2-Sawmill Creek Dome (MN)
3-Taylors Falls (MN)

I have not been to Devils Lake but I am planning to go sometime this season, But as for the rest of the Mid I have been der’ and done dat’. I would like to see what others think.. oh, and P.S. Sandstone Violence is at least a grade (if not 2) harder then Veritas stand start (CO) and is on par with the grades in the south…

and that Veritas Comment was a shot @ the sock…

on a serous note…

If you come here the best areas in the Midwest (proper-no SD) IS Sawmill Creek Dome see bortobreathe.blogspot.com or ask the “Plow King” A.K.A. Brian Husama Camp..He knows what is up I can’t say a ton but I know of boulders the size of houses and rock like dark waters in Minnesota.. that is all I can say before I am shot. oh! and what is with these boulders in Ohio? I have a list with the “best I have seen” top 3 each grade 0-12/13..I t may be interesting to see what else people have to add (or -) from my list.

2 more things..

1. Jamie, what about the Shield…you didn’t do that one?? did you? It has to be kinda hard..

2.What is the v9 you speak of @ G.D.?

I’ll add one more

3. I have not been bouldering @ Devils Lake, with that said there could be some add ons.

I would like to think, If it was great we would know about it.

nic 0 – narc 1

Anchorpoint is on the west bluff and starfish is up at the reserve. both are really good problems, in my opinion. Starfish is an absolute classic and anchorpoint has probably only seen 3-4 ascents, that I know of. Its good but has pretty tricky beta.

Slope of dadaism is up by Monolith. if you walk from Venus rising back towards the north shore for a couple of minutes and then cross to the other side of the trail there is a mini bluff out there. there are three lines on it with slope, some random and painful V3 and a massive dyno project. Slope is good though. really fun but maybe a touch reachy. not bad though.

Yeah, Alpine club isn’t really steep at all. Maybe slightly overhung, 10-15 degrees. Deceivingly hard. really hard. It’s only two moves but looks super simple and easy. I think i was making comments about flashing it when we walked up to it. Then spent 4 days working on the first move. It’s just a big lockoff with your left hand to get a right hand sloper and then you pounce up to a left hand crimp/gaston and it’s over. Peter said that he put in well over 200 goes before the FA.

Having done Perfect Medium, another 9 in DL, Alpine club is MILES harder than that one. I’d be interested to see what you think of it. Very cool problem though.

there are alot of V12s I haven’t done nic, in the south or not

Sweet video, thanks for putting that up. I personally think that the Dodge is the shit. ‘Course being 35 minutes door to door for me helps. A lot. And having a wife and kid really limits the mileage I can put on for a day trip or weekend. Plus also not really ever having been to any other real bouldering destinations might distort my view some too. I guess what I am saying is that the Dodge is the best bouldering area I have ever been to, hands down. And that is that.

Yeah I don’t doubt that for a second.

The Lake is also pretty close for me, but I get discouraged with the frictionless nature of the rock and also the confusing directions to the boulders. I would rather climb than spend 1/2 the time traipsing around looking for rock. Spent 2 hours looking for the imaginary “Reserve” once– along the way I lost my cell phone, jacked my knee, and got in trouble for being late to meet my wife for a BBQ on the north shore. That put an end to my desire to boulder there…

I was talking to peter and he got me psyched to try those probs on the west bluff. I also want to check out the reserve and starfish does look rad!
As for the dodge, I love it there. convenient, mostly good landings, new stuff to find and discover.
As for ‘full execution’ which i called V9… Unfortunately it is contrived/forced. The story is that it was my original ‘vision’ and seemed to be the most logical until the beta was unlocked to be able to just stay up on the sloper to traverse it. I however had already put a lot of work into the ‘full’ version and was determined to still do it that way. I would love for someone to try it if they have nothing to do and tell me how they like it or how hard they think it is. The movement is rad, it was hard for me and it was fun as hell so i guess that’s all that matters right?

and let’s thanks Neil for the video… he has a great blog and shoots a ton of classics in the Midwest.

Nic, shoot me an e-mail and lets get together. There are some problems I’d love to get you on. The lake is fun once you get used to the nature of the rock. I hated it before I moved to Mammoth, but when I came back I liked it a lot more. You just have to take some time and be precise. It’s subtle…

Nic, Narc, Sweaty – hit me up if you’re at the lake any of these days in late November.

yo,I am coming in hot tomorrow, Monday the 24th… after a dispute on where to go. who is with me?
nic@fiveten.com

ok.. I did not go to the lake.

but I would like to who is going and when?

I watched the Narc walk up Sandstone Violence twice today; made it look easy even. Wow. Nice work Narc!

Does Governors Dodge have a guide book for sale?