Buttermilks: Cave Problem

July 16, 2008 4 Comments

During my 2006 trip to Bishop, I spent a lot of rest time running around and fondling holds of testpieces like The Mandala. Who hasn’t? However, I couldn’t spend the whole trip mimicking sequences I would never need to know so eventually I had to climb. When I was done molesting the “holds” on The Buttermilker, made famous by Dave Graham in Dosage 1, I walked 10 feet up the hill to try Cave Problem (V4/5/6?).

If memory serves, I did my normal routine before crawling down into the dirt for my flash go. I was pleasantly surprised to see my plan pay off with a 1st go send. My crew bailed me out from feeling like a complete leech by quickly sending as well so I was off the hook (that time).

I’m sure some of the popularity of this problem has to do with the Dr. Topo guide giving it 6 V points. I’m not sure, but the new guidebook gives it 5 or maybe even only 4 points. Either way, it is a fun problem. Get on it…

Governor Dodge: The Good Times Are Killing Me

Buttermilks: Soulslinger

4 Responses to “Buttermilks: Cave Problem”

tissuetendons Reply 16. Jul, 2008 at 8:23 am

“mimicking sequences I would never need to know”. lulz.

i do the same thing whenever i take a gander at Lucifer, cept i can’t fondle or molest any of the holds.

routes make dreaming further away.

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Luke Reply 16. Jul, 2008 at 10:57 am

Still gets V6 in the “new” guide. Known as one of the softer of the grade at bishop. For the full 6 points you just have to make sure not to dab.

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Ryan Reply 16. Jul, 2008 at 11:42 am

Nice Pics, it looks like a good sequence for sure.

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Climbing Narcissist Reply 21. Jul, 2008 at 12:21 pm

guess I don’t get full points…

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