It’s the winter season in Hueco Tanks, TX and with strong youngsters all across the fruited plains lacking anything else to do, the sends are starting to roll in. A couple of years back, the V13 du jour seemed to be El Techo De Los Tres Bs with many climbers sending this onetime V14. This [...]
Sendtrain Heating Up In Hueco Tanks
Video: Adam Ondra Sending “Open Air” 9a+/5.15a
Video footage of Adam Ondra’s recent repeat of Alex Huber’s “Open Air” a previously unrepeated 5.15a sport route in Austria.
HP40 For The New Year
Tomorrow we will heading to Steele, AL to ring in the New Year at HP40. I’m nursing a tweaked finger on my right hand and Mrs. Narc is still recovering from her unfortunate ankle injury so it will be another low key HP40 trip. This will be our third consecutive trip there where one or [...]
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Only The “Highest Caliber Of Wood Grained Sandstone” For Daniel Woods…
The bouldering at Arkansas’s Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was featured in Dosage III in a memorable piece culminating with Chris Sharma’s FA of Witness The Fitness. This footage is presumably what lured the likes of Ethan Pringle, Ty Landman and Dave Graham to the woods of Arkansas. Given the two high profile pieces on Arkansas bouldering, it was only a matter of time before other strong climbers decided to stop to check things out. UPDATED 12/30/08
Lynn Hill Chablanke (V11/12) Video On MVM
Over the long holiday weekend, Momentum Video Magazine posted up a video by Scott Neel of Lynn Hill’s ascent of Chablanke (V11/12) in Hueco Tanks. You can check it out by clicking here. As usual, a couple of things jumped out at me while watching the brief video (other than the impressive nature of the climbing).
Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)
Here is one last video from the footage that Paul Robinson was kind enough to send along. This time up he is depicted repeating The Swarm, an “easy” V14 at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. Along with Hueco’s Esperanza (V14), The Swarm is the most repeated V14 in the U.S. Somewhat notable is that [...]

Lynn Hill Chablanke Photos
Check out Deadpoint Magazine for a few photos of Lynn Hill’s recent repeat of Chablanke (V11/12) at Hueco Tanks.
Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM
The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.
Video: George Ullrich Gaia (E8 6c) Flash Attempt
Check out this incredible video of Brit George Ullrich attempting to flash Gaia.
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Video Friday – 2/10/2012
February 10, 2012
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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