Jaws II

15. Oct, 2007 5 Comments

Vasya Vorotnikov has made the First Ascent of Dave Graham’s crimp nightmare Jaws since some holds broke.  Originally graded 5.14b, Vasya has registered the new version as 5.15a and he calls it Jaws II.  Considering that he has only done one 5.14c (Livin’ Astroglide) it remains to be seen if the grade will hold up.  What happened to the days of erring on the side of grading routes a little bit more stoutly??

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5 Responses to “Jaws II”

  1. Max Reply 16. Oct, 2007 at 7:08 am

    just to clarify, the 15.a grade is more of a consensus grade from all of the strong people who have tried the route from what i’ve been told about it. there are several low percentage V12 cruxes on it, followed by the end of a stout 14.b (china beach). he also put in 35 days of work into the route over 2 years…this thing is waaay harder than astroglide. good job Vasya.

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  2. Climbing Narcissist Reply 17. Oct, 2007 at 5:41 pm

    Thanks for the clarification Max. His rationale behind the .15a grade makes sense. Either way it is an awesome effort on Vasya’s part.

    I look forward to seeing the video on Momemtumvm soon. Hopefully this will entice others to give it some more effort.

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Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Hard, Unrepeated American Routes | Climbing Narcissist - 28. Mar, 2008

    [...] Jaws II 5.15a – Vasya Vorotnikov – Rumney, NH [...]
  2. News & Notes - 9/11/2008 | Climbing Narcissist - 11. Sep, 2008

    [...] comp on the Saturday of the event.  The big bounties are offering $1,000 to anyone that can repeat Jaws II (5.15a) and $2000 to anyone who can claim the FA of the so-called Bill Clinton [...]
  3. News & Notes – 10/29/2008 | Climbing Narcissist - 29. Oct, 2008

    [...] Woods is in Rumney vying to repeat Vasya Vorotnikov’s unrepeated potential 5.15a Jaws II.  While waiting for conditions to improve, Woods quickly ticked off The Fly (5.14d/V14).  [...]

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