Vasya Vorotnikov has made the First Ascent of Dave Graham’s crimp nightmare Jaws since some holds broke. Originally graded 5.14b, Vasya has registered the new version as 5.15a and he calls it Jaws II.

Jaws II
Posted In: News, Sport Climbing
Climbers: Vasya Vorotnikov
Areas: Rumney
5 Responses to Jaws II
Trackbacks/Pingbacks
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Hard, Unrepeated American Routes | Climbing Narcissist -
March 28, 2008
[...] Jaws II 5.15a – Vasya Vorotnikov – Rumney, NH [...]
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News & Notes - 9/11/2008 | Climbing Narcissist -
September 11, 2008
[...] comp on the Saturday of the event. The big bounties are offering $1,000 to anyone that can repeat Jaws II (5.15a) and $2000 to anyone who can claim the FA of the so-called Bill Clinton [...]
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News & Notes – 10/29/2008 | Climbing Narcissist -
October 29, 2008
[...] Woods is in Rumney vying to repeat Vasya Vorotnikov’s unrepeated potential 5.15a Jaws II. While waiting for conditions to improve, Woods quickly ticked off The Fly (5.14d/V14). [...]
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News & Notes
Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.






just to clarify, the 15.a grade is more of a consensus grade from all of the strong people who have tried the route from what i’ve been told about it. there are several low percentage V12 cruxes on it, followed by the end of a stout 14.b (china beach). he also put in 35 days of work into the route over 2 years…this thing is waaay harder than astroglide. good job Vasya.
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Thanks for the clarification Max. His rationale behind the .15a grade makes sense. Either way it is an awesome effort on Vasya’s part.
I look forward to seeing the video on Momemtumvm soon. Hopefully this will entice others to give it some more effort.
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