What a great weekend. Amy and I pulled off a rare doubleheader on Saturday when we took in a Wisconsin Badger football game in the afternoon and then a Brewers baseball game in the evening. Despite being thoroughly exhausted from all the pregame “preparation” Friday night and the miles of walking and sitting in the sun all day Saturday we still made plans to head to Devil’s Lake on Sunday.
Amy awoke feeling rather ill but after I gave her a proper motivational talking to we met up with our friend Chris and headed to the Lake for some more excursions in Traditional climbing. Unfortunately part of my motivation was that it was going to get 20 degrees warmer and that never came to fruition…sorry about that Am.
As is the norm lately, we arrived at the CCC parking lot around 9 am and found that it was not all that crowded.
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Psyched by this development we made the trek up the CCC Trail.
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We had decided on the drive up to warm up on the always classic Two Pines aka Full Stop (5.6) and thankfully the area hadn’t been overrun by a group…yet. Chris took the sharp end while Amy and I followed.
After
Full Stop it was my turn on the sharp end, and Chris suggested I try to onsight
Peter’s Project (5.7). Despite the fact that I have climbed many routes much harder than a route like
Peter’s I try not to take anything lightly when it comes to leading on gear at the Lake. I learned that lesson the hard way last weekend when I took my first gear fall on a 5.8 at the Lake. I’m sure if it had been a sport route I might have been embarrassed to fall off of a 5.8 but I was actually pretty psyched. For me it was a good learning experience to know that the gear will hold, and it also served as a good reminder that 5.8 at the Lake can be freaking hard!
Anyway,
Peter’s went pretty well. Some hard, balancy moves down low that made getting the gear in a bit difficult were followed by very enjoyable climbing up above.After that, Chris led a route called
Schizophrenia (5.6) which was not as fun as some other routes that we had done but nonetheless it was enjoyable. Next up it was my turn on the sharp end again and I wanted to lead a route which I had followed Chris up many years ago called
Push-Mi, Pull Yu (5.6). One of the longer pitches at the lake,
PMPY is probably 70-80 long and it follows a meandering route up the wall utilizing an ever present crack feature.
Push-Mi, Pull Yu 
Due to the widening nature of the cracks, the top section of
PMPY was probably some of the most runout climbing I have done. If you don’t know much about the climbing at Devil’s Lake, just know that good friction is not really something that ever comes into play. The rock is all bullet hard quartzite that is just varying degrees of slick. A few of the moves up high required some tenuous foot and hand placements in situations where falling would have been very painful at best. I actually felt pretty comfortable, and my footwork has gotten 100x better since the last time I climbed at the Lake regularly.Overall it was a great day and the weather really was perfect in that the cloudy conditions kept the wasps at bay for once.
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I also want to congratulate Steve and Kelsen, two guys that I climbed with during my time in Madison, for sending
Perfect Medium on Sunday. At V9 this is one of the hardest boulder problems at the Lake and probably the entire state. Kelsen also made quick work of my favorite problem at the Lake
Venus Rising (V7). Nice work guys!
The couple that climbs in 5.10 together, stays together…
at a point in life where i had already send a good hanfull of v8s, i had to take when FOLLOWING a 5.8 pitch on trad.
i propose that 8a.nu uses the following conversion for traditional climbs
5.10 trad = v9 = 5.13b sport
5.11 trad = v11 = 5.13/14 sport
5.12 trad = v12 = 5.14b sport
5.13 trad = v13 = 5.15a sport
5.14 trad = v14 downrated from v15 = unknown sport territory
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I wanted to head up to the lake over the weekend, but sarah a.k.a. the wheels had to “work”.
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Good thing you didn’t take up Meteorology in Mad-Town!! Still a better thing you didn’t take up motivational speaking. You’re pep talk (aka. Well, I’m going with or without you)was…inspirational.
And Tony–next time, give us a call…we’re all about being as irresponsible as possible on the weekends 🙂
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What about pictures of me climbing? I make a good picture. Are we heading up this weekend again, we need to get on Britons and Foreplay. Maybe you can lead Cul De Sac, now that there is a fixed piece on the climb. Let me know if Sunday works for you, I have to make up my mind if I am going to the red or if i’m sticking around for DL.
Chris
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You would have to talk to the photo taker person…I was busy belaying someone. We had been talking about going to the Lake so I’ll talk to Amy and get back to you today.
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Moderate trad 4 lyfe!!!!11
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I agree with Old School, Every one wants to see pictures of him. Very Nice.
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Look for pictures of Old School exacting vengeance on Cul-de-sac come Monday morning…
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By the way, Sock Hands’s grading scale is probably spot on…
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