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Climbers: Roland Hemetzberger
Roland Hemetzberger Sends Zarathustra (5.14c)
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Climbers: Roland Hemetzberger
15 Responses to Roland Hemetzberger Sends Zarathustra (5.14c)
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Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
Why does he take out fixed protection (bolts) just to put in other fixed protection (pitons, stoppers)? I would think just skip the bolts and do your thing….. no need to be a dick and cut bolts off someones climb just because you think your “Style” is Cleaner.
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Soooooooooo much editing…
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ohh so preset gear is called leading a trad line now??
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Will The Narc have a new tab in the video section for “Pseudo-trad”???
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Seems like a lot of high-end trad falls under that tab these days
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Hey Mack! You should totally go out there and “free” or “lead” this climb just to call this guy out…I mean you could probably do it the traditional style no problem ya??
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I don’t think that someones ability precludes them from having an opinion on the style that an ascent is completed. Of course, a person who actually goes out and gets this kind of stuff done has a lot of credibility in assessing these situations. How ever It should not be solely up to a small group of people who can climb these grades to decide wether the style that a route is completed is within the ethics of the day. Yes Pitons are considered traditional. But is replacing bolts with pitons sustainable? When first placed, a piton can be as good as a bolt, over the years their condition worsens to the point where the most recent ascent is always the most bold and eventually the piton just falls out or must be removed leaving a rock scar.
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this is the weirdest mix of styles– no bolts, not quite a trad climb, not quite a headpoint.
The weirdest thing to me is the gear at the crux– instead of a bolt, there is now a nut and two knifeblades, with the three pieces equalized with a cordalette. Kind of retarded…
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to finish my thought above, this is the sort of style that gets everyone mad at your style of ascent, and pulls attention away from your actual climbing accomplishment
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OK, I have an ethical issues with the chopping of the bolts, then pink pointing it. My understanding is that if you chop bolts, it’s to say “this line deserves to be done in a purer style”. To clip gear that was previously placed, is essentially the same as slamming bolts. If anything its less clean to remove bolts, because it’s leaving the same holes, without the benefit of being able to sport climb it.
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Who cares, its freaking Europe. Let silly euro’s be silly euro’s at their home crags, American trad ethics don’t apply there.
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Silly Pink Pointer!
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I don’t care for many trad climbers’ ‘holier than thou’ attitude towards climbing. Climbing anything impacts the environment, polishing the rock, stuck pieces and webbing left behind, garbage left behind(el cap case in point), trails, gas to get there, etc etc. I’m not saying all trad climbers adopt this attitude. But I lived in Yosemite for 2 years and it is quite common. Bottom line is all climbing has an impact in some way. So what if someone bolts some sparsely protected trad route? Maybe they want to climb a sweet line without dying.
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Maybe they want ot climb a sweet line without dying – I agree with that!
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so, he took a sport climb, chopped the bolts, and then pre-placed all of the gear with pre-hung draws so he could do a sport ascent?
why?
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