[vimeo http://vimeo.com/43867848 w=980&h=551]
| Video Source | ClimbingNarc Video Page
In this series we follow Arc'teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist around North America as he hits different areas from Western Canada to Kentucky. Along the way JStar sends new routes and repeats area classics.
In our final episode, Jonathan travels to the Red River Gorge of Kentucky to face his greatest challenge to date: The Vader Project. In the journey towards completing this project Jstar learns many lessons about first ascents, success and failure, and the psychological challenges of climbing full-time.
Past Episodes:
See Jonathan climb in Alberta: https://vimeo.com/42308193
See Jonathan climb in Utah: https://vimeo.com/43424340
See more of Jonathan in action at: http://arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/JonathanSiegrist
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Red River Gorge
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So he says he doesn’t want the easy way out but then rebolts the line to include an off path “roundabout” section of wall because it’s easier beta. I didn’t hear him say the original line doesn’t go so I’m not sure why he wouldn’t have just left it unfinished.
I’m sure there is off-route beta that’s easier on a LOT of routes, but does this mean original project lines should be altered to make them easier?
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He stated pretty clearly that the difficult way he was trying could be considered contrived if one opted for this other path. His explanation suggests that it is a reasonable distance from the bolts and that although the new beta drifts to the side, it is not far enough to be considered off-route.
In the end the movement of bolts on a project should reflect the line that goes, not the contrived line.
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While I appreciate his explanation, I sure hope he sought out at least a conversation with the fellow who installed the line and came to a conclusion that the original sequence was ‘contrived’ therefore requiring a new sequence and retro-bolting. To do otherwise seems pretty weak to me…
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