On November 16th, famed French sport climbing pioneer Patrick Edlinger passed away at the age of 52…
Patrick Edlinger
Video Friday – 11/23/2012
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Use It Or Lose It
Climbing legend Ben Moon, who is now 46-years-old, on his renewed motivation to sport climb:
Time really does seem to be relative and goes faster the older you get which is why you have to seize it with both hands and not waste it, especially if you are lucky enough to have good health. This is not always as easy as it sounds since nothing is possible without the motivation to do it and motivation can be a fickle friend, but if you have it you owe it to yourself to use it. As the old adage goes, use it or lose it.
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Will Stanhope Repeats The Prophet
Will Stanhope on his 4th ascent of The Prophet, a route on El Cap best known for its stunning “A1 Beauty” crux pitch:
I didn’t sleep much that night, instead just blinking at the stars from the portaledge, enjoying being up there. I felt enormously grateful for all my friends that helped me along the way. Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles, for the inspiration in the first place. If it wasn’t for those two brits, the Prophet wouldn’t exist.
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And Sonnie Trotter, for ropegunning the route last year. He took the leads when I was having serious doubts, terrified of re-breaking my foot.
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He never made me feel guilty about anything, instead he just gently took over the sharp-end, and showed me how it was done. The night seemed to drag on forever, but I was ecstatic, savoring every minute of darkness, high on the wall.
I don’t know much about big wall free climbing, but it is a bit confusing how Stanhope and 3rd ascenionist Nik Berry can take a variation around one of the crux pitches and still have repeated the same climb that Leo Houlding established. I’m inclined to take their word for it since they climb rad shit and I don’t, but it’s just something that crossed my mind as I read both their reports.
Video Friday – 11/16/2012
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Don’t Not Climb
You think you’re desensitized to violence because you’ve seen a million violent movies and TV shows,and then a young kid with his whole life ahead of him and all that smashes himself on a ledge three feet from you and you realize how scared you can really get. If what I had seen had been on a movie screen, I would have hidden behind my hand.
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Scary story.
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Wheel Of Life Direct By James Kassay
James Kassay blogs about his recent FA of a more direct version of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel Of Life in the Grampians Hollow Mountain Cave:
So what is the Direct finish??? Well as I have said before, my aim wasn’t to just start at the bottom of the cave and climb to the top the easiest possible way (Not saying that there is anything wrong with that for those who choose to do it and its still far from an easy option).
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There are four established problems that originally made up the wheel of life and whilst some of the crux moves can be traversed around to make the line easier I wanted to start at the lowest part of the cave, then follow the established problems; X-treme Cool, Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Cant Dance and rather than taking the early exit out right I wanted to complete Dead Cant Dance up and slightly left which is the highest point of the cave and in my opinion the grandest line of the cave! So I started at the lowest point… Followed the established line of classic problems and finished at the highest point.
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Sean McColl’s 3 Weeks In Asia
The 2012 sport climbing World Cup wraps up this weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, but before it does I wanted to share a blog post that Sean McColl wrote about his recent 3 week swing through Asia for a trio of World Cups which found him on the podium for 2 out of the 3 events. Ironically enough, the one event where he didn’t finish on the podium was the one event where he finished the finals route…
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along with every other competitor in finals.
McColl was also in Venezuela over the weekend where took 1st in the lead climbing portion of the PanAmerican Games and Sasha DiGiulian won both lead and bouldering for the women.
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