Watch the entirety of the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Log Dragomer, Slovenia live starting early Saturday morning
2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Log Dragomer Replay
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Video Friday – 5/10/2013
The highest rated videos of the past week
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→ Ammagamma Sessions∞
Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees, is back in the climbing game after a long break. This also means he’s back in the blogging game, and he just got done writing a pretty fascinating series of blog posts about his efforts to repeat the well-known Grampians V13, Ammagamma.
The catch? Bradbury, who had previously climbed V13 some years back, was coming off a long break from climbing and had only climbed as hard as V7 before starting to project Ammagamma.
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I won’t spoil the end except to share this bit from his unsuccessful 4th session on the problem. Sound like anything you might do?
Here I was on my honeymoon and I was 100% focused on a boulder problem. I told Emily that I didn’t think I could leave without climbing Ammagamma. I told her I’d change my flight to NZ so that I could stay in the Grampians another week to keep on trying.
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What was I really saying? She told me that I just needed 1 good go, that I was going to do it this session.How could I reconcile my own selfish pursuit with the fact that I was here with my wife? I didn’t know if I really would stay. I’d said it to gauge a reaction… but just saying it had made me ask bigger and deeper questions.
Check out the 5 part series by clicking the links below:
→ Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra∞
Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you’re scoring at home.
I’m starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.
→ Daniel Woods Repeating Bridge Of Ashes (V15)∞
It’s going to take a while for me to get that song out of my head.
Also, some words from Woods on the process of sending this problem in one day can be read here:
This was the first time I had done a boulder of this difficulty in a session. It would not have been possible without the help of Dave. He cleaned this line, battled with it, and overcame. Dave inspires me in a way that he can turn nothing into something majestic. He is a wizard and never fails to amaze.
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→ Unfinished Business∞
Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:
When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic. Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.
…snip…
Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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→ Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia∞
Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:
By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.
→ Underwhelmed∞
Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV:
To be downright honest I was underwhelmed – but I also went there with pretty big expectations. There is some potential there, and the Mondo Cave is absolutely enormous, but for now I feel like my time and energy can be better spent elsewhere.
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The cave has great rock, but it also has a lot of poor rock – logistically it’s a little strange.
The expectations game in climbing can be a bit of a mind-f*ck for all of us, not just professionals. So much of our experience upon first visiting an area is colored by the expectations set prior to that visit by stories and beta gleaned from others as well as a natural excitement I think we all have when seeing a new place.
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Often times this leads to an underwhelming feeling like the one described by Siegrist, but as with many things in life first impressions are just that.
It’ll be interesting to see what comes of the climbing in Ely over the next decade or two.
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