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Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain:
It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a desperate on-sight battle expecially since only 4 other climbers have ever on-sighted an 8c+ route before (Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos (9a) and Ramon Julian Puigblanque). I feel like I’m in the shape of my life after investing so much time in Neanderthal. Unfortunately it didn’t go this season, but at least I got to put the shape in good use.
In a repeat of what happened earlier this year in the Red River Gorge, 49-year-old Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has followed closely on the heels of 11-year-old daughter Brooke’s success in repeating Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain. Like Brooke, this was Robyn’s first of the grade, and while I’m not willing to get as hyperbolic as the fine folks at 8a.nu, Robyn’s career is pretty remarkable: multiple time World Cup champion, 5.14a back in the 90’s, multiple 5.
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14as in the past few weeks and now this.
According to her 8a scorecard 11-year-old Brooke Raboutou has done her first 5.14b in Welcome To Tijuana at Rodellar, Spain. This makes her the likely youngest to ever achieve such a grade and no doubt the shortest as well. The 50-foot power endurance route Welcome to Tijuana is a popular first 5.14b as it was Brooke’s brother Shawn’s and Sasha DiGiulian’s first as well. It only took DiGiulian 14 months to make the jump from her first 5.
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14b to climbing 5.14d, I wonder how long it will take Brooke??
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