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Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:
The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog about her recent repeat of the notorious trad line Musta Been High (5.13 R) in Eldorado Canyon:
Some might say I Musta Been High to climb this route, but I did not take advantage of our local Cannabis dispensaries. Musta Been High is a traditional climb in Eldorado Canyon rated 13c R. It has a reputation for being hard and scary, with most gear so small that it may not hold a fall.
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A little over a year after she did her first 5.13d, Heather Robinson fired her first 5.14a when she did Mon Pote Assis at Nevada’s Mt. Potosi. Commenting about the ascent on her 8a scorecard she had this to say: Oh my goodness! This send was a dream come true. Thank you Chris for believing in […]
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