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Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):
In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.
The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.
I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.
If you had Adam Ondra in the office pool for who would be the first to onsight 5.14d you just lost. Probably.
Chris Sharma finishes his hardest route yet
Nice piece by Outside Online profling Liz and Rick Weber, owners of Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge:
With over 30,000 visitors last year, Muir Valley has become the most popular climbing destination in the eastern half of the country. For eight years, Rick and Liz Weber have shouldered the property and developmental expenses as their gift to the climbing community.
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But, now in their late 60s and facing declining health, the future of the valley is unclear.
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If you’ve climbed in the Red River Gorge in the past 10 years the odds are pretty good you’ve climbed on the Weber’s property.
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The odds are also pretty good that you’ve climbed on their property at zero expense to yourself, so consider making a donation to Friends of Muir Valley if you want to see climbing continue on this incredible property into the future.
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