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→ More 5.15s In Norway By Adam Ondra (Again)∞

Posted September 26, 2013 at 9:57 am · Comments { 0 } ·

It looks like Adam Ondra’s season in Norway has come to an end, but not before he added two more 5.15s up there with the FAs of Hell Racer (5.15a) in Hell and Kangaroo’s Limb (5.15a) in Flatanger. He comments about the latter on his 8a scorecard:

Another season in this beautiful cave is over for me. Many projects left behind. Left exit version of Kangaroo’s dyno project, the cheater’s one.
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Dyno specialists, come and try it!
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I could stick the dyno as a single move, but not very close to link.

At this point Ondra has pretty much lapped the field when it comes to the sheer volume of hard sport routes he has done.

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Adam Ondra

· Areas { 1 }

Flatanger

Sequence

Posted September 23, 2013 at 8:55 am · Comments { 2 } ·

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→ Bel Succcesso∞

Posted September 23, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Final update from Dave MacLeod on his and Alan Cassidy’s attempts to climb Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and get home. Everything was wrong and I felt a bit fed up to be honest. My ankle hurt on the walk-in, I couldn’t do certain movements with it on the rock, I’d had my fill of climbing wet rock or frozen rock, we’d not had even one good day to try it properly. Worst of all, it was baltic.

And Alan Cassidy on their last day’s efforts:

I was desperately blowing warm breath on my hands with every single move, pressing them against the warm flesh of the back of my neck and getting none the warmer. About 15m up at peg 3, I had a little moment, outwardly expressing my dissatisfaction with where I was:

– “It’s F**%$%^ so cold”

– “I don’t want to be here”

– “F%^* sake, this is so $%&t, nothing gets my hands warm”

– “these pegs are all so F%&*@£$”

They sent, obviously.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 2 }

Alan Cassidy, Dave MacLeod

· Areas { 1 }

Cima Ovest

A Day With Fred Beckey In The Dolomites

Posted September 22, 2013 at 8:51 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ Bellavista∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 9:50 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Bellavista, Alex Huber’s route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian did the FFA of the route with partner Edu Marin. At the time I didn’t feel as though I had a real sense for what this route must be like though. I mean, what does a climbing on a big wall of limestone like this really look like?
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Fortunately, Alan Cassidy and Dave MacLeod are in Italy right now trying the route, and Cassidy posted this report after day 1:

So that was it we were there, under that big roof. I am truly struggling to convey the feeling of being perched on the belay seat under that enormous roof as I watched Dave disappear round the corner out of sight to equip the crux pitches (8c, 8a).
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It was eerily calm and the warmest I had been all day. I heard little from Dave but was well aware of the constant trickle of falling stones coming from the gully at the side of the cliff an the chatter of tourists ambling their way round the Tre Cime. Looking at the void under the roof I felt a strong unease, not fear, just that sense of there being more comfortable things to be doing with your spare time. All of a sudden a yelp, followed by a falling rock, followed by a falling Dave appeared. The first time either of us had succumbed to the almost inevitable hold failure.

MacLeod has also updated his blog with a post on their efforts with some pictures that give you a good sense of the challenge they’re up against.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 2 }

Alan Cassidy, Dave MacLeod

· Areas { 1 }

Cima Ovest

→ Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber’s Coalition∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon. Once an area you just heard rumors about¹, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice. Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.

This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep. Nice work!