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→ Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 7:58 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham’s The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he considers to be his hardest problem yet:

Every attempt was a gamble and I had to just give it my all. For most of my ascents, I can pin point when I am going to send.
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This one was not the case. I just convinced myself that one day would be the “lucky” day and I would never have to go back again.

Woods spent some 13 days working the problem before succeeding which, when you think about it, is really not that long in the grand scheme of things. Imagine what he could do if he had to spend multiple years to complete a project.
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Can a boulder problem that hard even exist?

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Daniel Woods

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Guanella Pass

→ Foundation’s Edge∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 9:11 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Graham, writing for The Island about his FA of Foundation’s Edge in Fionnay, Switzerland:

It was an awesome climb. I battled it out, got super pumped, and didn’t kill myself falling off wet top out.
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19 moves, and about 12 meters long, and one my favorite pieces of climbing I have ever done.

The sequence is powerful and tensiony, yet flowing. I love the body positions you get into while you climb it. Very athletic, yet balancy.

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Dave Graham

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Josh Levin – Livin’ Astro (5.14c) at Rumney

Posted November 4, 2013 at 8:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project∞

Posted November 2, 2013 at 7:36 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook:

Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness.
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Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like a costochondral seperation. I am headed home to try and heal as quickly as possable.

Best of luck to Tommy as he recovers.
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What this means for the 2013 effort on the Dawn Wall is unclear, but between the 16 day government shutdown and this, the odds of the route going this year don’t look real great from here.

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Tommy Caldwell

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2013 IFSC Lead World Cup – Valence Live

Posted November 1, 2013 at 8:45 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Adam Ondra’s return to the Lead World Cup circuit seems as good a time as any to get back on the bandwagon and check out some of the world’s best sport climbers as they compete this weekend in Valence, France.

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→ New Bloc Times∞

Posted October 31, 2013 at 12:07 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

The bouldering in Australia’s Grampians, and the sector Buandik in particular, has gotten wide attention the past couple of years as climbers like Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Ian Dory, Paul Robinson and others have visited, raising the area’s profile considerably¹. As is often the case though, they are not the first climbers to visit these “new” areas.
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For more background on some of the local activity that has taken place before, during and after these climbers’ visits, the blog New Bloc Times has a nice collection of words, pictures and videos that describe more of the history of these incredible looking areas.