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Nick Duttle Repeats Alpine 5.14

DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship’s Prow near Longs Peak:

After breaking a few holds during his efforts at what he calls, “the first fat guy ascent,” Nick felt the line warranted the 5.14b grade.  He also noted that it took him longer to figure out the crux on Sarchasm  than it did for him to figure out some V14 boulder problems.

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Desert Fox Crew Visits Hueco, Bishop & Joshua Tree

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Hard New Route At “Next Level Something” Crag By Jorg Verhoeven

Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5.
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14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more:

I must say, I never seen anything like this place before. The Americans would come up with a ‘Next Level something’, but all I can think of is the next level of astonishment…

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Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian

Another Day At The Office For Adam Ondra & Sasha DiGiulian

Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian

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Hazel Findlay Climbing Rainbows of Recalcitrance (E6)

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Michele Caminati In Rocklands 2011

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Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay

About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave, James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V9 on the front end of the aforementioned Sleepy Rave.  It could be argued that Wheel Of Life is more of a route than a boulder problem (just check out the 12 minute video Ethan Pringle climbing the line), but Kassay registered his ascent as V16 on his 8a scorecard and commented that he’s now trying a “direct” version of the problem.

Update:  Kassay updated his blog with some interesting thoughts on the ascent including why it may have taken him longer than some would have thought to put together the full Wheel Of Life:

Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.

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