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Sender One: Chris Sharma Climbing Gym

Posted June 5, 2013 at 12:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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More FAs By Adam Ondra In Norway

More FAs By Adam Ondra In Norway

Posted June 4, 2013 at 10:16 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Adam Ondra on Illusionist (5.14d) by Petr Pavlíček

Adam Ondra is back in Norway for the summer

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→ 5.14+ FA By Steve McClure∞

Posted June 4, 2013 at 9:05 am · Comments { 0 } ·

42-year-old Steve McClure is still getting it done over in the UK, this time by making a new link-up in the 5.14d/5.15a-range at Malham called Batman:

Not so important for me to put a number on it as I have nothing left to prove, except that I’m not totally over the hill, but perhaps that’s only to myself!  I’ll never make superstar status now, I’ll never manage 9b+; anything below that is old hat in terms of big news. So it doesn’t matter what ‘9’ it is; 9a, 9a+ or 9b is just off the pace. However, it’s not a bad thing to put some kind of marker on a route.

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→ Another Death On El Capitan∞

Posted June 4, 2013 at 8:00 am · Comments { 13 } ·

More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan:

A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, June 2, 2013. Felix Joseph Kiernan, from London, England, was climbing on the East Buttress of El Capitan, a popular climbing route in Yosemite Valley, when he was struck by a rock.
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Stay safe out there everyone.

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→ Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky∞

Posted June 3, 2013 at 8:06 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky:

The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acres in Beattyville, Kentucky. Named the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, the land includes several miles of cliff line, some of which has been developed but with the vast majority of it awaiting discovery and development.
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There is potential for more than a dozen individual crags and hundreds of high-quality routes.
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The RRGCC is looking for the support of climbers in paying back the $245,000 purchase price, something they have had success with in the past with the recently paid-off 750 acre Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve.

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→ Climbing Will Not Be In 2020 Olympics∞

Posted May 29, 2013 at 11:17 am · Comments { 17 } ·

Disappointing, but not surprising news for people excited about seeing climbing included in the 2020 Olympics in Buenos Aires:

The Executive Board (EB) of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) today recommended that baseball/softball, squash and wrestling be proposed to the 125th IOC Session for possible inclusion as an additional sport on the Olympic programme for the 2020 Olympic Games.

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→ Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway∞

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet1:

I sent the pitch placing gear on lead except for a few pieces in the easier sections which I had left in place to make it easier to clean the route after each try, because it’s very overhanging. So a slightly purer ascent could still be done. The pitch is about 35m long and has no bolts, neither on the route itself nor at the belays.

You can see some footage of the route here.

  1.  Bear in mind that Favresse is no stranger to hard crack climbing having repeated lines like Squamish’s Cobra Crack (5.14) ↩
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