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LT11.tv Live Talkshow #1 – 9/4/13 – Paul Robinson & Alex Johnson

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Wrestling Voted Back Into Olympics

In news that is about as surprising as the fact that Apple will announce a new iPhone later today, wrestling has been voted back into the Olympics:

The International Olympic Committee, recognizing the gravity of its error, reinstated wrestling to the 2020 Summer Games program.

At the same time, the IOC rejected bids to put squash and a combined effort from baseball/softball onto the show at the Tokyo 2020 Games, underscoring the fix it has put itself in as it seeks to keep the program relevant.

“This was a mistake,” the influential Kuwaiti Sheikh Ahmad al-Fahad al-Sabah said before the vote to reinstate wrestling, referring to the move last February by the IOC’s policy-making executive board to take it off the 2020 program.

The IOC fixed the mistake in a one-and-done vote.
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The writing was on the wall for people hoping to get climbing in the Olympics as soon as wrestling was cut back in February.  With only one slot available and wrestling only really in a penalty box of sorts, climbing or any of the other short-listed sports seemingly never had a chance.  Whether climbing would have had a chance had the wrestling situation not materialized is less clear, although it still seemed like a long shot.

This is all more good news for those who are adamantly opposed to climbing becoming an Olympic sport, and I would think it would give pause to supporters of the effort when the next IOC dog and pony show gets started for 2024.
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Athlete Spotlight – Tommy Caldwell

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New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter

Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news:

Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project,Castles in the Sky, on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted route, rated 5.14a, rises five pitches up a prow on a lower buttress of the mountain. While the route features moderate pitches of rock near the bottom, a dramatic overhanging arête guards access to the route’s final and easier pitches.
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The key to success??  WWTCD of course:

When things got tough, however, he would ask himself “what would Tommy Caldwell do?”

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New V15 At Lincoln Lake By Jimmy Webb

New V15 At Lincoln Lake By Jimmy Webb

Jimmy Webb continues his strong form by doing the FA of a probable V15 at Lincoln Lake

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On The Anniversary Of The Death Of Wolfgang Güllich

Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992:

Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a soft 8c – from 1984 to 1991, Güllich established every major grade from 8b (31) to 9a (35) making him one of, if not the most successful climber of his time. Looking back from this day and being able to map the evolution of climbing since, the question must be asked, had Wolfgang not died in 1992, would he have gone on to do the world’s first 9a+?

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European Bouldering Championship: Fischhuber And Stöhr Win In Eindhoven

How unsurprising:

On Sunday night at Eindhoven (The Netherlands) the Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber won the European Bouldering Championship 2013.

If you didn’t catch it this past weekend live, you can watch a replay of the entire comp here.

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