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→ Honnold & Caldwell Pull Off “Mother Of All Traverses” In Patagonia∞

Posted February 18, 2014 at 7:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Rolando Garibotti, reporting in a post on SuperTopo:

Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed “Fitz Traverse”, climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.

This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l’S.
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In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.
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11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.

Not bad for Honnold’s first visit to Patagonia.
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Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell

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Patagonia

2014 ABS Nationals Streaming Live Friday & Saturday

Posted February 17, 2014 at 7:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Schedule for this weekend’s ABS Nationals which will be streamed live in its entirety

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→ Climbing Edition Of The Stars Are Just Like Us∞

Posted February 14, 2014 at 11:00 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Jakob Schubert, in a photo posted to Facebook during his current visit to Hueco Tanks:

In the end it wasn’t worth it though, at the second to last move I heard a loud noise and hoped a hold broke, but instead it was my finger.. seems like this climbing trip is over for me.. don’t have a diagnose yet but doesn’t feel good..

See, just like those trashy montages in Us Weekly, we have evidence that famous climbers are just like you and I and aren’t immune from injury.

Wait. What’s that? Oh. Schubert’s injury happened while he was en route to being the 3rd person to flash Nagual, the legendary Fred Nicole V13 on East Spur that has previously been flashed by Paul Robinson and Sean McColl.

Hmm. Well, if I ever tried that problem my fingers would probably explode too, except for me it would just be attempting to pull off the ground. So yeah, maybe climbing stars aren’t quite like us…

Post by Jakob Schubert.

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Jakob Schubert

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Hueco Tanks

→ Steven Roth & Ethan Pringle Go Big∞

Posted February 11, 2014 at 8:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Honnold’s boulder problem free solo Too Big To Flail, which was featured in 2012’s Reel Rock 7, has seen a lot of action of late. First up was Lonnie Kauk who repeated the problem late last year, and then this past weekend Ethan Pringle and Stephen stepped and repeated the line as reported in this post by DPM:

Roth, a relatively unknown Berkeley college student who works at Touchstone Climbing, went first and, utilizing slightly different beta than Pringle, steadily cruised the line and was standing on top in disbelief in minutes. His movement was confident and precise, just like his prior burns on top rope, and his execution was flawless.

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Ethan Pringle, Lonnie Kauk, Steven Roth

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Bishop, Buttermilks

Mike Doyle – Athlete Spotlight “Necessary Diligence”

Posted February 6, 2014 at 8:49 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ Terje Haakonsen: Why I Still Hate The Olympics∞

Posted February 6, 2014 at 8:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Pro Snowboarder Terje Haakonsen is not a fan of the Olympics:

If anything I feel even more strongly about it today. When I was younger, I was just thinking about snowboarding, but now I see the bigger picture and the other stuff that goes on.
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The whole thing is corrupt – the IOC is run by a few people, when in reality it is something that should be owned by the whole world and to benefit sport, not just to make them money.
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Considering how much of a disaster the upcoming Sochi games are from a financial, humanitarian, animal welfare and even human hygiene perspective, maybe climbers should think twice about wanting to get our sport involved in the Olympic circus in the first place.

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