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Climbing Violations In Joshua Tree

Posted September 19, 2012 at 9:06 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Not cool:

A subsequent Park Service investigation of The Underground Chasm discovered hundreds of illegally placed bolts, fixed rope, burnt Joshua Trees, stashed camping and climbing gear, chipped steps and damage to other nearby trees and plants—all misdemeanors individually punishable by a mandatory court appearance and $5,000 fine.

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Consequences Of Growth

Posted September 12, 2012 at 10:12 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Gustavo Moser:

The consequences of “growth” are starting to show; the impact on our crags is visible. Shameless ethics and a lack of climbing etiquette are actually changing and indeed damaging the climbing experience. This article is not intended to say what the “right” code of behavior is. It is intended to show that there is a problem and that the people and companies that expect to make a profit or a living from our sport are directly responsible for educating the people who decide to make this discipline a part of their lives.
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He goes on to list several things he feels could be done to address these issues that had me nodding as I read each one.
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American Alpine Club One Day Member Drive

Posted July 26, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The American Alpine Club is celebrating their acquisition of the Hueco Rock Ranch with a one day member drive TODAY.  Sign up or renew your membership today and receive a free shirt commemorating the Rock Ranch acquisition in addition to all the other great benefits the AAC has to offer.
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Background On The Hueco Rock Ranch Sale

Posted July 19, 2012 at 3:15 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Access Fund Access Director Joe Sambataro, writing about the Access Fund’s role in the recent American Alpine Club acquisition of the iconic Hueco Rock Ranch:

Finishing his drink, Rob [Rice] explains how he came to Hueco shortly before the park rules changed, closing access to classic boulders and setting up a new process for permits and guide-only access. “It was important for me to honor Todd’s home and dream of a climbers’ hub,” explains Rob.
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He shares how he became the first commercial guide under the new public use plan, built a campground, and started a business of lodging and guiding, opening the Ranch up to the broader climbing community. “New generations of climbers have flocked to Hueco, and thousands of new stories have been made, year after year, here at the Ranch,” says Rob.
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“I want this legacy to continue in climber-friendly hands.
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”

Amen.

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Hueco Rock Ranch Sold

Hueco Rock Ranch Sold

Posted July 13, 2012 at 1:32 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

The Hueco Rock Ranch has been sold

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NY Times On Climbing Restrictions In Cuba

Posted July 6, 2012 at 6:10 am · Comments { 5 } ·

I’m not sure what the average New York Times reader cares about rock climbing restrictions in any country let alone Cuba, but I think climbers will find this piece by Alex Lowther interesting:

In March, one guard, a congenial man in a green button-down shirt, said: “We don’t like to say climbing is prohibited. Climbing isn’t prohibited, because prohibited is an ugly word.
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”

But may one climb?

“No,” he said.

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When In Doubt Pack It Out

Posted May 16, 2012 at 4:06 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom.
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 In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.

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